Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

https://uniortools.com/eng/product/1607-4-bottom-bracket-shell-installation-tool#19816

This is the tool you need. Used to get ones from cyclus tools or someone like that made them decades ago. Unior now make this beast which so far has rescued a whole bunch of frames from my scrap pile. The two very chunky pieces of steel thread together sandwiching the cup against the tool face (has two slightly different sizes), as you undo it, the tool self tightens against the cup ensuring no slip. Then simply add heat, kroil, tappy tap hammer and repeat until it shakes loose.
Used to have a very oldshool 'D' shaped spanner that fitted over these type of BB, but someone trashed it by just sending it instead of add heat, kroil, tappy tap hammer and repeat until it shakes loose.

Just fill it with loose BBs that are the same size, probably 5/32", were the wrong BB cages you ordered the right size balls?

Just fill it with loose BBs that are the same size, probably 5/32", were the wrong BB cages you ordered the right size balls?

I got him to order proper, sealed catridges, but that was obviously a mistake.
And now I think he's lost the old lower race so think we need a whole new set.

sealed catridges

Yeah, you need to have a cartridge headset and get the right sized and angled cartridge bearings for it, if you're not swapping the headset then easiest to just whack loose balls in, but you'd be best going to a shop and either get them to do it, or at least take the old bearings in and they'll either have cages or loose balls (fnar) they can sell you in the right size.

Will see if he can find the lower cage. I sent him round a couple of bike shops yesterday, but with no success.
(and thanks)

They didn't have ball bearings? Madness.

I'd be surprised if the lowers are a different size, about 50 loose balls should cover you with a few spare, whack s load of grease on the race and add balls until you can't add any more (fnar) then take one out, repeat on the other side.

They wanted him to bring frame in, etc. One of them didn't have mechanic in... I should have gone with him.
He's found lower race so think we can sort it if I find one of the bearings that fell out on my floor yesterday

Any thoughts on the indentation where the levers have been clamped on this set of bars? Could be a bit of a steal but I’m wary given they are carbon bars…

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166000508633?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Q207tdFhTau&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=_cc7N1TMRua&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Do not touch those bars with a barge pole.

I wouldn't ride them and I'm not known for being particularly careful with my safety

Pretty late to the reply here, but I've had various Pinarelli that are 6806 or similar non angular contact bearings in the headsets, so it's entirely possible.

I did just chuck a couple of 6806s is it. Doesn’t seem like a fantastic solution, whole thing felt a bit fragile as I was pressing them in, but whatever, it’s not my bike!

I’m installing some jagwire compressionless housing into SRAM Rival levers. Should the silver EZ bend segment go directly into the lever or should there be a ferrule on the end? Between what came with the lever and the cables I’ve got a load of different kinds of ferrules (open end caps, lined end caps, POP end caps)! Any ideas which, if any, I should use at the lever end? Ta!

Pretty sure it just goes straight in, it's basically got a built in ferrule, right? If it fits, it sits

Thanks, yeah went with that and it seems to sit well 👍

in an old tiagra mech these bits don’t fit so the jockeys spin. it all came out the spares box separately so don’t know if these bits should work together. the shimano jockey wheels are a pair, the silver discs are from another mech and neither belong to the mech.

1 Attachment

the shimano jockey wheels are a pair

A right pair. The holes in them appear to be different sizes. Is that OK for the derailleur?

Looks like you're missing a bushing from the middle of the lower jockey wheel in that pic. It should be slightly wider than the wheel; this holds the silver discs off it a bit, and allows a tiny bit of float.

What he^ said.

a spun the tombola of gacky metal that is the spares box and out popped a bushing, it now seems to work! thanks!!!

my VO front mudguard flops about a bit when I take one hand off - is there some sort of support I can buy that prevents this, or do I just make one out of a wire coat hanger?

Maybe just keep both hands on the mudguard while cycling then?

...How many stays does it currently have? Most front guards I've seen are OK with one stay but you can always find an extra stay here:
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/search/?term=mudguard%20stay

it's more just braking while indicating - the front of the front guard rubs on the tyre.

I thought I'd seen a wire stay that attaches to canti mounts and supports the front of the guard but maybe I was imagining this thing.

Like that but without the rack and the £200 price tag

Mavic Ksyrium SLS wheels - rear rim picked up a dent on the top from probably getting bashed by courier. Amazingly wheel still true and it's only noticeable to the eye if you look hard and a slight niggle to the brake surface - worth keeping as is?

Second part to the question - I've got a spare SLS rim but would have to use the original spokes for a rebuild. Is it doable? The local mechanic working here wouldn't take it on and says they can be a git rebuilding..so any successes?

1 Attachment

It sounds like it could do with tightening up under the fork crown.