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• #40002
There are a plethora of videos out there on restoring furniture. I’ve looked into it quite a bit and going to restore the damaged left bedside table so it matches the right one.
I don’t think I need to steam it, just a light sand and then either beeswax or danish oil. If I did steam it, do you steam then sand or sand then steam?
3 Attachments
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• #40003
Why would you steam, that would lift any veneers and risk more water damage. Surely?
Sand. Oxalic acid wash. Rinse. Dry . Sand. oil. Wax.
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• #40004
i read steaming removes scratches. Don't shoot the messenger!
cheers -
• #40005
Ah, yeah it can remove dents it might struggle with scratches as those are cut fibres. Just gotta be careful with veneers and hot water.
Good luck.
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• #40006
If you have specific dents or deep scratches then you can get a moist wad of kitchen roll on that spot and hit it with a soldering iron or edge of a household iron. That's what people do in the world of guitar dents. I've had luck with it before. It keeps the water damage small.
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• #40007
The caulking gun solution seems best. Some of the holes are really deep.
Thanks guys
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• #40008
cool - I pm’d my number
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• #40009
Oxalic acid wash is soo good.
I have old metal lamps that stained some of my wooden stuff, did a half assed no sanding acid then polish job and it's so much better. -
• #40010
Nice work!
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• #40011
Yep. I've got a massive tub of it for very occasional use. There's nothing like it.
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• #40012
I want to add an outdoor tap in my front garden. There is a stop tap at the meter in the street, then a lead pipe leading through the basement to a stop tap that is behind a kitchen cupboard and impossible to get to in a hurry.
I was planing on adding a section of pipe in the basement by using a lead lock, adding a stop tap and then a T off to feed the outside tap. Main questions are:
- Is this a job for a professional? I'm a pretty competent DIYer and have done plumbing before (not soldering).
- Should I replace as much lead as I can get to or just a small section?
- Should I use copper or MDPE?
- Any tricks for getting Thames Water to replace the lead pipe entirely for little/no cost?
- Is this a job for a professional? I'm a pretty competent DIYer and have done plumbing before (not soldering).
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• #40013
I’ve already answered all these questions in the pub.
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• #40014
There was a lot of 'probably' and it was mixed in with you telling me that your bath had to come out to fix a badly joined pipe...
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• #40015
True, but that wasn’t my mistake, and I’ve learnt a lot fixing it.
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• #40016
Dewalt thin cutting disc are what I use.
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• #40017
Check stop valve on the street works.
Take out homeserve insurance.
Smash TF out of the lead pipe in the basement.
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• #40018
Any tricks for getting Thames Water to replace the lead pipe entirely for little/no cost?
They'll replace it up to your boundary for nothing I think. Beyond that, it's yours.
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• #40019
Nothing or £1000+. I’d like the direct line of the nothing person please.
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• #40020
Seeing as the budget pot is rapidly dwindling due to an outbreak of “can we just”*
where is the best place to buy 40m of bullnose or pencil round primed MDF skirting?*have custom metal powder coated furniture in bathroom/have more sockets that we will ever need, move all the ceiling roses and add more lights all chased in concrete ceilings/fix the boiler we didn’t know was broken etc etc.
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• #40021
Wickes?
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• #40022
Travis Perkins
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• #40023
Not anymore but it has done before (this isn’t the first time).
Live in a maisonette block. Shared pipework. People. Shit. London sewer blockages etc etc. -
• #40024
I had a desk of similar vintage. First thing to check is what is veneer and what isn’t. That will indicate where you need to be cautious with the sanding. It’s surprisingly easy to sand through the veneer, don’t ask how I know. The drawer faces look to be solid oak. For those, I’d consider a rub down with a fine brass wire brush to get the old varnish out of the grain prior to sanding. It looks like a lovely project to work on.
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• #40025
:(
Does it still smell?