Bike fit / correct riding position

I run 165mm on almost everything.

First ride today on 170 down from 175 and it felt nice, also felt that little bit less saddle rub you mention which was great.

Wondering if I should try 165 now, or just be happy that 170 feels nicer.

I feel experience with 165/167.5/170 cranks that it is very marginal gains but more feel. The 165 cranks are turning a 39/17 with 32c knobby cyclocross tire. The 167.5 cranks are pushing 49/19 with 28c slick. 170 cranks pushing 42/17 with a 32c hybrid tire.

They all fall within the same gear ratio but feel different.

Cheers for the recco here, had some MX177s I bought from sigma in there sale for like £86 turn up today, not ridden yet but feel so comfy to stand in. I agree about the single boa mind. Still, just plastering another recommendation for Lake here if anyone remains unconvinced.

That's a great price. Glad they seem comfy initially. Have used mine twice outside with no issues and on the turbo daily for a couple of weeks and they've been great. Also just got back from a ride with a couple of stream crossings - my only concern is water retention as they don't seem like they're going to dry very fast but we shall see! Very pleased with the fit though.

Is this the right place for this:

I'm looking at a frame that was custom made for someone else and I want to cross reference the geometry against other bikes.

Does anyone have a Geometry Geeks account where they can put the numbers in and it brings up matches?

Ta

I should go ahead and get an inline post, shouldn't I?

(This photo has just explained the slight wrist niggle I've been getting. Lovely)

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Although, unless your seat tube angle is REALLY slack, why is the saddle so far forward?
It also appears to be sloping down at the front.
Having all your weight front loaded would explain the wrist niggle.
Saddle further back and level with a shorter stem would probably be a better solution IMO....

I've ridden this around 8000 miles without much issue before going for a bike fit. Which suggested it was a little longer than optimum.

As a result the stem has gone from 110 to 90 (may settle on 100) and saddle right forward. It feels much the same comfort wise and yes I noticed from this photo the saddle is angled down.

Don't really like that the saddle is clamped like that though, I assume an inline post is the answer to get it more centred on the rails

I don't know why I posted really.

I'm mulling over the prospect of being an adult and getting a grown up bike. As I have no idea how a bike should actually fit, has anyone had any experience with the cadence performance guys in Giants St. Pauls?

Hey!
Do you think a 58cm SuperSix would fit a 6’5” man?

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I’m currently on a tour with my maiden (@thornybabe) and unfortunately she’s having knee pain.
Front, top, slightly inside leg.
We’ve had a day off the bikes and skipped a bit by taking a train.

Please help with some tips as we’ve got lots more riding and climbing to do.

Rest ice compress elevate

please don't press on and ride through injury and massive discomfort

Weed is your friend... seriously

Numb the pain and carry on is incredibly bad advice.

Any issues with riding bikes that are technically too big for me over longish distances? Recently picked up a tandem on eBay (it was cheap and well located so decided to take the punt) and discovered its a 21/17 (M); I'm 5'7 and my usual bike is a 51. Had to drop the seatpost all the way down to make this work but it works fine with the 2in of post needed for the stoker stem showing, and the rear also seems to work for my 5'3 stoker. Reach doesn't feel too different from what I'm comfortable with given that this is a flat bar bike with a high stem with a fairly upright riding position, stoker seems comfortable as well. So far only done a 20k cycle (to get it home), but would ideally like to take it to day trips out of London so wondering if there might be issues down the line and if I'd be better off waiting for something in the right size to come up (feels like hen's teeth though!)

Depends if the "too big" amount means you start doing stuff to compensate like rocking your hips to reach pedals or being so stretched out your arms are locked out. If it's "too big" but you can still get your position to be good enough then there's no drama.

Unlike my solo bikes, I mount and dismount the tandem throwing the leg over the top tube, as the stoker bar and more importantly the stoker herself makes it impossible to swing my leg behind the saddle. This means I much prefer having a lower top tube on my tandem — this is even more of a factor when the tandem is loaded. What you're describing sounds like something that wouldn't work for me, but yemv

Frame sizing on tandems is less critical than on solos, provided you can get your saddles and handlebars in the right places. Unusual stem lengths, etc have an almost irrelevant effect on handling because of the effects of the increased weight and wheelbase.

Many folk prefer slightly shorter and/or more upright positions on tandems to help with maintaining control over a heavy bike with a jiggling live cargo (captain) or to get some separation between nose and captain’s back (stoker). Tandem aerodynamics mean that individual aero optimisation is less critical.

Good morning folks,

So for the most part I have my riding position sorted in that I have no pain or strains however I
do have a reoccurring issue of pushing myself into the back of my current saddle, my guess is my butt is looking for support?, this is far more prevalent when cycling outside as opposed to when on the trainer which I use a lot.

I would like to try out a Selle SMP for a short period before pulling the trigger, is there any shops in London that offer a trial period for these?. It seems a lot of places that sell these do a fitting option but I really need to ride on the road for a few days or ideally a week to make sure the purchase is viable as I find a big difference with comfort from static trainer to road that doesn't always cross over.

Thanks

LBK have a saddle fitting service, which allows you two weeks use of a saddle. They have a range of SMP saddles. https://www.lbk.org.uk/saddle-library

Butternut bikes in Crouch End have some testers - they’re red and yellow so you’ll want to take it back

Question regarding stack/reach/head tube length.

I’m riding a 58 supersix, which fits very well, 120 -6 slammed, but I’m sizing up a TCR. Looks like I could ride an ML TCR with Shimano 12s shifters, which are longer reach, on a 120 stem, but I’d need 20mm spacers under the stem. TCR in L would need a 110 stem but slammed.

What I don’t get is the relationship between stack and head tube lengths. They don’t add up, especially as the TCR has tyre clearance for 32mm, vs 28mm on the supersix. So the fork length should be longer, making the head tubes shorter to match these stack measurements, right?

If the L TCR has 10mm taller head tube, plus clearance for 32s, how can the stack be 3mm lower?

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TCR has tyre clearance for 32mm, vs 28mm on the supersix. So the fork length should be longer, making the head tubes shorter to match these stack measurements, right?

not always the case; shape of the fork could vary significantly - especially if the SS is rim brake and the tcr is disc. it depends on the 'axle to crown' of the fork. which is weirdly not in that table

Not sure if you’ve taken into account, but if you use 20mm of spacers on the ML your reach will also come back by 6-7mm.