I got 99 problems but my WiFi ain't one

Thanks for all the replies. Cable will be with a WAP in the outbuilding.

Any thoughts on why two of my kindles will no longer connect to wifi (Unifi APs)? Can see the networks and good signal strength but won't connect. Tried it on the general SSID and the 2.4GHz split one and neither will connect.

It was fine up until a few days ago and they do connect to my a hotspot on my phone so not sure what to make of it.

Check when updates occurred.

Mine update 2w ago, and my oven had to be reconnected. In my case the APs auto selected a channel that the chipset in the oven cannot get to, so I pinned the channel to a lower one that was last congested.

Cheers. Had a look but can't see where it tells you when upgrades happened. Thinking about it I suspect I also have the auto-channel selection to avoid congestion on so there is a chance it was switched channels.

Your oven?

Yes.

And the hob, and the extractor hood.

They talk to each other via WiFi.

Can you heat the oven up from outside the house, so that you can wang a pizza in as soon as you get home?

I want this functionality.

Yes assuming MobileStart is activated.

The safety feature is that you can't do this without enabling remote capabilities via MobileStart, and those expire - meaning you need to be with the device to enable it, once enabled you can control it.

However, that's for turning on from a cold start. Once on you can control all the things.

How secure are these things? How hard would it be for someone clued up to hack an oven + hob?

The hardware is pretty secure, not perfect but definitely good enough against remote hacks. If you have physical access then as always it is game over, plus you could've just turned the oven on 🤷

They do talk to each other on the local network, but I sniffed that and everything is encrypted and a portscan showed very little was open so they've done a reasonably good job at local network security. But in any case I chose to put the kitchen appliances on their own VLAN.

The weak point would be the hosted APIs that drive the mobile app - but I'm ambivalent about those risks because whilst they are real, what they can do is limited by the local hardware controls. i.e. you cannot turn on an oven without MobileStart being enabled locally and physically, and even if you could turn on the hob it isn't going to do anything as the induction won't detect metal on it and won't engage. The worst someone could do remotely without the local physical controls being enabled is to see how much detergent I have left in the washing machine, turn on the extractor fan, or turn on the hob lighting - none of which is bad.

And to be clear, because I don't actually start things on the app I haven't enabled MobileStart locally - which means everything is read-only, the APIs cannot tell the hardware to do anything with the safety switch that is MobileStart not enabled.

So what benefit is there? Well the remote APIs cannot do anything without MobileStart, but locally the hardware does trust the authenticated other hardware, and they co-ordinate together. The hob and extractor hood are entirely different SKUs and yet via WiFi they talk to each other and if you put something on the hob the extractor will turn on at the appropriate speed, with lighting enabled, and after you've stopped cooking it will run for a few minutes to clear the air and then turn off. So there's lots of nice small benefits even if you're not doing remote stuff.

More importantly are the clocks in sync and do they change for stupid-make-the-farmers happy day in March/October?

They're all in sync always.

Detergent based public shaming is just a matter of time

Any like to hazard a guess as to what is going on with my network?

Set up is as below:

Power to both APs was provided by PoE by the Tough switch.

I recently unplugged the Unifi AP-Lite and when I plugged it back in again it didn't work. Didn't light up at all.

A bit of experimenting found that whichever AP I first plugged into the Tough switch would work fine. The second wouldn't work (sometimes it would light up as if powered but the Tough switch wouldn't see anything plugged in and the AP showed as offline).

My guess was maybe it was a power supply issue so I left PoE enabled on one port to power one AP and used a PoE injector to power the other. Both APs now work but the one with the injector only connects at 100Mbps rather than 1000.

Any bright ideas on what is going on here before I just sod it and buy a new PoE switch?

I have a Unifi AC Lite access point and a Unifi Dream Machine up for sale if anyone is interested.

£125 for the pair.

Any suggestions for where is decent to buy switches other than Amazon? Got bored of trying to fix the above so I'm going to replace the PoE switch.

I've had good customer service from https://www.broadbandbuyer.com/

2nd hand Ubiquiti stuff on eBay has always served me well.

I have a few switches without power cables. I'll drop you a PM.

My troubleshooting usually involves:

Have you tried with different cables? Are both APs adopted by the USG? Can you SSH to the APs? Is everything as up-to-date as it can be? Is there any vlan / trunking fuckery happening? What version AP are they - 6 needs 24v, tough switches only provide 12v. Are the tough switches configure for POE?

Cheers, prices look decent on there and there is a good range.

@hugo7 Thanks. I'm looking for something fairly specific, 8 (or 16 I guess) port with PoE but if you have anything like that I'd be interested.

Most of the Ubiquiti stuff that matches the criteria is out of stock so second hand prices are sky high at the moment (more than RRP on a few bits I saw).

I've tried various different cables (and a couple of different tough switches). Both APs are adopted, fully up to date and show as fine in the controller. I haven't tried SSHing to them but see no reason why it wouldn't work. Not sure how you find the version but they are reasonably old, at least 5 or 6 years and probably more (although I'm pretty sure the tough switches provide 24V).

Shouldn't be any VLAN shit going on and can't see anything in settings. Tough switches are configured for PoE with the LED showing. I've tried various different ports (and the port works if it is the first AP to be plugged in).

A new power supply was in my thinking but a decent one is half of the price of a replacement switch with no guarantee of working.

24V

Sorry - I meant 48v versus 24v!

The POE5 can do 24v (good enough for the UAP-AC-Lite), while the POE8 can do 48V (required for eg. the UAP-AC-LR)

What does the AP with the injector do if you plug it straight into the USG or the unmanaged switch?

Hmm, I have one AC-Lite and one AC-LR (both pretty old though) and didn't think they had different power requirements, will have to check that out.

Switching the AP with the injector to the other switch will be the next test on my list. Wonder if it may be an issue with the injector that it only connects at 100Mbps (think I have another injector somewhere too)

netgear prosafe GS110TP
8 port
POE
£15 posted /£10 from Canary Wharf

Feel like it's a good price so it'd be the same for two of them. But could do three for £30p&p/£25 collected.