Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

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  • Thank you, much appreciated! I cycled round a few LBS's yesterday for just this thing (no luck) so good to know they have it, cheers.

  • Yup defo valid, anything aerosol based is a potential issue, bad for your breathing and passageways, causes contact dermatitis and can cause allergies due to hypersensitivity down the line.

    I've become severely allergic to latex and vinyl gloves after wearing them for so long. Also a popular pigment for black into cloths and gloves which is great when my favourite glove was black mambas!

    So now i can only wear cotton gloves at work that are dipped in something on the outside too try and keep dirt out, however if i touch my face or any other skin with this dipped rubbery material I also get a skin reaction within a few a hours.

    Like almost anything, if you are exposed to trace harsh chemicals on a regular though basis, you will develop a hypersensitivity to them.

    Most bike workshops are pokey basements with no ventilation, no light and generally unpleasant all around,lots to be done to improve them for sure.

  • Crossing gear cables under the downtube (apparently to get a smoother run of outer from the brifter into the cable stop). Yay, nay or meh?

  • Probably a good idea if you have a short headtube, meaning tight bends from handlebar to downtube. I've done both and can't tell a difference tbh.

  • Probably makes little difference, but there's no harm. If you're lucky the BB guide will put the cables at different heights so they won't touch in the middle.

  • Thanks both. It turned out not to be relevant as the position of the cable stops wouldn't let me cross them anyway.

  • Brake calliper woes have struck. The old 'fine until you pull the brake lever, then one side stays where it is stuck fast against the rim when you release the lever' issue. How do you solve this? I used to just tighten the bolt that holds it to the frame, but it's as tight as it'll go.

    For reference, it’s a Campagnolo Centaur skeleton calliper. I've a video of the problem I can share if that helps.

  • How do you solve this?

    You need a spanner (17 mm if memory serves) to re-centre the caliper. I'll see if I can dig out a video.

  • Have your pads worn a lip on them that's getting stuck under or maybe over the braking surface? If not then they need centering.

  • Here's what's happening...

    Stupid Google Drive.

    Try this...

    https://youtu.be/AJAEYtG6LDY

  • Sorted now. Just recentred using a 15mm spanner. Cheers for the steer on that.

  • Corrosion inside Chris King alloy lower cup. Secondhand headset came with alloy corrosion inside the lower cup. Difficult to describe but raised in areas as well as pitted.
    I’ve run some glass paper around to smooth off the high points, and I dont think a steerer column actually contacts these points.
    Bit it’s a bit disconcerting.
    Bearings need to be flushed and greased as I’m sure some powdery alloy has got inside.
    Would it be inadvisable to use this. It’s potentially for a nice titanium frame and carbon fork so don’t want any mechanical issues (or expensive dental bills).
    An option is a titanium King but that’s a) not pink and b) I’m not sure Ti > Ti is advisable.
    Please help solve my indecisiveness…


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  • Just replace the cartridge bearing?

  • AFAIK the cups are fully anodized so seeing all bare aluminium all around suggest something went wrong somewhere.

    Bearings are non replaceable. Fully serviceable though, lift the seal ring, give it a good clean and then regrease and reseal.

  • There are reasons not to use any Chris King headset and that looks like a big reason not to use that Chris King headset so…

  • Thanks all… think I’m going to use this as a trial for clean and re-grease, then return to the spares pile for a different build (ie not best bike).

  • There are reasons not to use any Chris King headset

    Bearings are non replaceable.

    sounds like another

  • Help with Zipp wheels, are the Zipp Campagnolo freehubs the same so same one will fit on 302's and 303's?

    My googling reveals the Campag freehubs seem to be blue colour, and say 11 speed, but can I run Campag 10 speed on them?

    And if the answer to the above is yes, where the hell can you get any in London ideally, or even anywhere in the UK that doesn't seem to need a special order? I can't seem to find them in stock anywhere.

  • Continuing on the post to flat mount fork issue: I’ve purchased and installed the Wolf Tooth adapte. It fits, but it seems to raise the calliper about 3-5mm too much. What could be the issue? The previous rotors were fine, and I’m 99% sure they’re 160mm and not some weird 155mm size.


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  • On my Planet X London road the seatstay bridge mudguard mount has come loose within the bridge- I assume it’s an insert that was fixed in but the joining has given up. This means it rattles annoyingly!
    What would you use to try and glue it back in?
    Thanks

  • It's just a nutsert/rivnut. They can be re-crushed like this:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eh3lH-UnRUE

  • Looks like a manufacturing defect, likely to do with the anodising.

    I’d reach out to Chris King direct; I’ve had very good experiences with doing this in the past. They’re likely to sort you out with a free/discounted replacement (“lifetime warranty”).

  • You absolute gem thanks!

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Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

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