Home DIY

Thanks both - looks like it's not going to be a five minute job! Will wait until the weekend and look to loosen the hood as suggested.

Update on the terrazzo removal, Diacut turned up, bit of pondering as the special horizontal cutter was too big and would hit the wall below the sill so 10 min with the big angle grinder and a bit of dust and it was out with the only collateral damage was a cut through one of the window ties.
Think that works out over £1500 an hour if you just pay for cutting time! took longer to get the equipment in and out than actual cutting.
Worth every penny

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Would have been nice of them to put some dust cloths down to protect the floor.

for the time it took that'd have been about £250ph to put down dust cloths

result though - glad that they could be kept

Further in the saga of our cowboy-built extension, any thoughts on whether I can bodge repair this below.
The top is the gutter channel off the flat extension roof that goes into the drain pipe at the bottom of the pic. Under the 'lip' is now rotten hardboard that i need to protect/replace as water is now leaking inside, presumably through that.
I was thinking to bend up the lip bit and scrape out as much rotten as possible, then fill/cover with something waterproof?

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Peeps - I want to make the plastic bezel on my old ugly telly - white ? rustoleum plastic primer + matt white + clear top or some kind of sticky back plastic ?

wide (50mm) white PVC electrical insulation tape sounds alot cheaper than all that paint (~£2-3)

That’ll curl with the heat surely?

Plastidip is what you want but you need to be super certain you do all your masking correctly or it’ll look shit and / or wreck the TV.

just getting it off the roll might be trouble,

I've used carbon fibre look 3m di noc wrap on plastic and it was very easy to get neat and tidy results. A nice material to work with. It's a bit expensive though, not sure if 3m do anything a little cheaper in plain white?

I’d replace the rotten hardboard for a start then get some roofing adhesive and glue down a water proof membrane. Should stop the leak.

I should point out I have no experience in this.

Flexacryl and some 'scrim' is good - the scrim provides a scaffold for the Flexacryl to bond to. The thin fleece material that you wrap plants to protect them from frost would work.

Thanks both. Have something similar to flexacryl I've used for other roof patching. Think I'll dig it out and go from there.

@Nahguavkire I think did something similar to a car radio surround and did a pretty much perfect job

Appreciate the vote of confidence!

@Sheppz I actually just used rattle cans from Halfords and it turned out great! Just have a read of the cans to see which primer is suitable for plastics but I don't think you need to be overly fussy with it and then whatever colour and a clearcoat over.

Thanks all - very tight internal and external corners so I’m leaning rattle can over vinyl

Think I'm gonna need a SDS drill for some upcoming diy (drilling into concrete posts, demoing some brickwork). Do I get the popular Titan corded for £70 or get this cordless Makita LXT for £100? I've got a few makita batteries already. Are there any drawbacks of the Makita?

Titan: https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb653sds-5-9kg-electric-sds-plus-drill-230-240v/6846h

Makita: https://www.powertoolworld.co.uk/makita-dhr202zwj-18v-lxt-sds-plus-rotary-hammer-20mm-white-body-only-in-carry-case?gclid=CjwKCAiAr4GgBhBFEiwAgwORrQum_8yYOebJcn0xl0gj-__2XCxJI3r9LgtO7W-39btoVUQsL7EJeRoClOUQAvD_BwE

Never owned cordless so can't say. But if you're South of the river, you can borrow my corded for free for as long as you need.

I was looking for a power comparison, ie watts. I don’t know much about impact drills but I assume you want a powerful one. The makita doesn’t seem to list wattage. They do both list “impact energy” - Makita: 2J, Titan: 8J.

In short I’d buy the corded one unless I needed to use it in the middle of a field

The Titan with a higher impact energy will be far more useful for demo work.

How serious about the concrete?

I have a Makita and rate it super highly for wood, brick, plasterboard, etc. Did over 70 holes a few months back into brick and the battery held up for the whole time and there were no issues with capability to drill into bricks of varying age and density.

But concrete... I'd probably want to watch a few YouTube videos on how it performs before betting on it.

In all other respects I love the cordless. I've done a good amount of work with the power out, and for me there have been more occasions with no power supply than occasions where the cordless felt challenged (that's currently zero for me, but I haven't drilled concrete yet).

Also, the Titan one is good (I own one) but heavy and unwieldy. May make it a bit more stable for demolishing stuff but it's not a tool I'd want to use up a ladder or something. A decent brushless, cordless hammer drill will get through a lot though.

Thanks for the offer! However I'm north of the river.

Against the advice on here I ordered the Makita in the end. Will be useful for more things over time (and smaller to store) and there's definitely been instances where my combi drill wasn't powerful enough to drill through certain walls. And if I really need the power of the Titan down the line I'll pick up up (hopefully when we're in a house and more storage space/bigger jobs to use it on).

I need to buy one also but just for long masony bits through insulation into brick for the fixings, may have to nibble one corner of a concrete beam with a scutch but that’s just a couple of cm.

Edit, just realised the Mrs's drill is a Makita 18v one so thats the decision made then.

I'm trying to get this radiator off but the tails just don't seem to have enough give to any space to get it out. Nuts both sides are loosened right off and radiator is drained but I can't get the thing off. Any tips other then draining the whole system and taking it off at the other nuts?

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