Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

I’ve probably got a new one I can sell you in se24/Victoria. Can check tomorrow morn if you want? Drop me a dm.

Yup! I could get one from Amazon BUT I don't wanna! SE24 or Victoria works.

Just tried transferring a 9spd cassette over from a mid 2010s spesh hardrock on to a much older hope splined free hub. Issue is there is now a fair bit of play, both lateral (I missed out the plastic washer closest to the wheel, doh) and rotational. The latter bit suggests to me that the splines on the freehub are smaller than the corresponding indents on the cassette rings. I thought most hubs from 90’s to mid 2010s were hyper glide and therefore all compatible? Good excuse to get a new cassette, but is there a particular standard of cassette I should get to match up with my existing freehub body? TVM

100% this. I’ve been wondering this a lot recently and my stance has completely
Changed.
Incredibly blasé about it for a long time, but I watched a video on the make up of brake cleaner. Next day I was masked up.
If I work on anything now, straight up PPE.

@Leshaches I think workshop dynamics are quite different to other industries. Working procedures aren’t enforced and whilst suggested, are never enforced. Going into it it young and arrogant, perspective changes over time.
100% with you on this.

Continued exposure to grease, lubricants and disc brake cleaner has caused one of my colleagues to develop contact dermatitis, so I think it’s definitely cause for concern being around chemicals all day.

Thankfully our workshop is well ventilated (stands are right next to the back door) and we now all wear gloves when working on bikes. If it’s worrying you then it’s definitely worth chatting to your employer/shop manager about - employers should be up for making some changes to keep you safe.

Having a supply of gloves (the Muc-Off ones are good) and a hot water tap to properly clean hands before eating is ideal!

There's often rotational play but once you sort the lateral, the lockring will hold everything solid and it will sit flush up against the splines as you only ever put force through the cassette in one direction.

Finally got around to having a go at unsticking a sticky piston, yesterday.

GRX800, front.

I cleaned both pistons thoroughly - three times. Worked them nearly all the way out, individually and cleaned with brake cleaner and then "lubricated" with a cotton bud of mineral oil.

Wheel back in, calliper loosened off, pads back in. Calliper centred, brake applied a few times to grab the disc and then tightened the calliper fixings.

It's better, but still not perfect. One piston still refuses to draw all the way back.

Am I missing a trick? These brakes are almost new so I am guessing a defect is unlikely.

They self adjust for wear and there's a little leeway so likely won't both fully return in normal use, if it won't go all the way in with you pushing them there might be a bit too much fluid in the system.

Ah I see! Thanks.

(still learning)

They go all the way home, with pushing, so no worries there.

Thanks for everyone's replies RE: my health and safety concerns. Really interesting to hear everyones experiences, and reassuring to know that I'm not the only person concerned about these chemicals.

I think bike mechanics fall into an interesting grey area, we're able to work on vehicles (with braking mechanisms, and other critical safety bits) without (or with optional) qualifications. I've never done a Cytech*, and know plenty of others that haven't either. As far as I can imagine, untrained car mechanics wouldn't be allowed to carry out servicing, even though the industries share a lot of chemicals (and responsibilities).

Should there be some kind of authority over workshop safety as in other industries? It sounds sensible, but I can't see how it would be implemented, or if it should be. There are benefits to being in a fairly unregulated industry, and I doubt a lot of struggling workshops can afford to lose 'unqualified' staff either.

As Leshaches and others have mentioned, the first thing we can do is to protect ourselves. Back in the workshop tomorrow, and I'll be wearing gloves and a mask and chatting to my employer. It's only the 3 of us, but hopefully we can spark some conversations with other mechanics in the city.

I'm 25 and have been messing with dirty bikes and chemicals for the last 5 years or so, more regularly in the last 2 months. After more research I'm feeling a little less comfortable with those last 5, and less excited about the next! It's glove time.

*According to the site they cover health and safety in every module.

Hey hey.
Hopefully this is the best place to ask this question..

I’ve got a bike I built as my partner’s runaround.
It’s a 90s? Steel Ribble that I got without much info on it.

I made some assumptions and built it up with 622 wheels / 700 x 25 tyres.
She’s been riding it for a year or so, and it ticks the right boxes for her.

But there’s an issue that the clearance on the rear brake bridge is much too tight. It’s a small frame, so I’m wondering if it was meant for 650b or similar.

I think I should get someone like Varohna to raise it up slightly?
But seems prudent to double check with the LFGSS hive first.

Is this the right solution?
Is it quite a simple and straightforward change?

No grand issues with clearance elsewhere on the bike.

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My partner has a Dave Hinde that has similar clearances, its just because its such a small frame (i think the smallest they did, the front lugs are touching on the headtube).
I have plans to try 650b wheels and long drop brakes but haven't yet had the cash to build up some 650b rim brake wheels.

Probably because back in the days 23 were considered fat tyres given that 18 were considered the standard size.

Ah, tyres getting chubbier!

So do you think it’s feasible to raise the brake bridge / weld a new one?

I’ve never used a framebuilder, but looks like they offer it.

Seems like a decent solution in theory, no?

Not done Cytech but have done Weldtech, there was zero health and safety chat.

Well, maybe a bit about the angle at which you apply pressure to a pedal wrench so you don't slip and punch the floor or chainrings (and maybe that was meant to be transferable to all tool use?) but nothing about chemicals.

I instructed part of a Cytech course, and there were some h&s elements, mainly the obvious ones: wear safety glasses, don’t send press fit bearings flying across the room, keep fingers out of turning wheels, etc. Anything more in depth came from us instructors. Hopefully one day there will be a more holistic approach to mechanics’ h&s, including ventilation, biomechanics, and chemical dangers as well as injury prevention (rest! stretch! w exercise opposing muscle groups!). Perhaps a brief book on the subject might help? Is there one already?

A lot of companies have strong financial incentives to avoid h&s becoming a sticking point for mechanics, just like in mining or the auto industry. Examples: exposure to dust from carbon fibre or carbon nanotubes could result in asbestosis (research in progress), exposure to greases and oils can cause all sorts of reactions (well established), even some bike paints and cheap packaging and definitely petrochemicals can off-gas stuff that is harmful to breath in all day every day.

Perhaps a brief book on the subject might help

Really like this idea. Wouldn't take much to do something free online to point people towards. As you say maybe someone has already done it

During my Cytech courses (minus the last one) we got a lot of h&s guidance. I do think it was due to the instructors being really good though. It should definitely be more in depth and a core part of it.

Get an estimate including paint and compare that to a smaller wheelset.
Also, would your partner benefit from a lower standover?

Should there be some kind of authority over workshop safety as in other industries?

It'd be a matter for the HSE, same as in other industries.

Headset tool question.
After a headset cup press and crown race fitting tool, found cheap press on ebay/amazon, with crown race tool, about £50, wiggle have meatier ones for £100 for both, then park tools.
Is the cheaper stuff OK, or go middle ground wiggle, or fuck the budget Park?

As I just came across a campagnolo cassette tool that I ordered when I went through the exact same issue as you, I realise I was wrong :)

I've got an early noughties (I think) 853 Ribble and it has similarly tight clearances on the back. When I switched from 25s to 28s I had to swap out the rear caliper from a Campag single-pivot to a dual-pivot. It's difficult to tell how close to the tyre the bridge itself is but the caliper looks mighty snug to the tyre, so you might want to swap that first and see.

Don't worry, you're not the first. :) The bike in question is being built at a shop as we speak (so I don't have to dirty my hands on Campag ;))

Cheap is perfect. There's nothing to them that warrants a high cost