Tubeless Tyres -"saying the same things about tubeless tyres over and over again" Hippy read the first f**king post

Surely the vast majority of tubeless alloy wheels aren't welded, and don't have this problem? My DTs and Kinlins aren't, and don't.

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the vast majority of tubeless alloy wheels aren't welded

And this thread wouldn't be 200 pages long if there wasn't a lot of ghetto shit which doesn't work properly out there.

Liz’s new bike has twin walled axis rims (21mm internal) they’re not tubeless ready, but I installed some tubeless sawtooths the other week and removed them today. And boy were they stuck on the rim, a real 2 thumb job to get them off.
I’ve now put on some WTB byways and was wondering if I tape them up would they be ok? Oh they’re schrader valve so I’d need to get some bolt on valves to do it. I don’t want to get them if people think it’s a waste of time.
Cheers.

This is quite satisfying for road tubeless back up

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No plugs?

Looks very nice.

Second @leggy_blonde about the plugs tho - really rate Dynaplug Pill (plus has space for two extra valve cores in case).

I'm also a mini pump fan over CO2, but that's only because I'm (very) old-fashioned (and scared of C02...)

Also assume you have some very strong levers somewhere (I've snapped a few mounting tires...)

@leggy_blonde
yeah have Dynaplug racer and pill and crank brothers tyre lever which is an annoying shape but very good.
Also have frame pump as an option.

doesent CO2 freeze sealant or something?

Some, but not the Muc-off one I use.

ah! didnt know.

Canister can be handy to reseat/ give options

https://www.topeak.com/global/en/product/1346-TUBI-11

Recently spotted this at the LBS, which I thought was a good idea, to have knife and reamer/plug tool housed in the multitool

I like this one from Muc Off - all at £9.99 now.

How are you all deciding when to top up sealant and how much to use to top up, if you don’t have or choose not to heed manufacturers’ recommendations?

3 months/ 30ml

Quarterly reminder per wheel in Pro Bike Garage because I’m an unprecedented loser

Is that because that’s roughly the rate at which is disappears / evaporates? I’ve been trying out checking how much is in there by way of dipping a cable tie into the valve, and if it looks a bit low then I top up with about half what the initial fill was. 2 month checks so far, looks safe to extend that to 3 months.

Depends how close you like to fly to the sun. Being pretty lazy, it’s generally when I get a puncture that doesn’t seal well.. 6 months per bike

That said we have 6 tubeless bikes in our household which is a real PITA to maintain. Might go back to tubes on the less used ones.

I wondered if you still use your Hydras for tubeless? I have tried without success to fit tubeless GP5000s to mine.

Think it was always recommended 3 monthly, but you can do the dip method, over winter it seems to last longer than the summer months

Can anyone advise whether what I was charged was reasonable or a rip off for tubeless set up?

Back in October I had some WTB Resoluts set up on my bike. I cant' remember what I paid then.

I wanted to change these over to tubeless GP5000S. I tried this myself unsuccessfully.

I took them back to the same shop who quoted me £30 per wheel which seemed okay (obviously the rim tape and valves were there from the initial install).

I picked them up today and when I asked why they thought I could not install them they said that the rim tape had come loose on one of the wheels so needed to be replaced.##

On top of the £60.00 labour charge they said £39.99 for rim tape! When I protested they were adamant that this was what it cost. I continued to protest and they they charged me £10 for rim tape per wheel so £80.00 in total.

£60.00 plus £39.99 for rim tape (no charge for the sealant) is a joke or am I just expecting it to be done unreasonably cheaply?

they said £39.99 for rim tape!

That does seem a bit spicy when good brand retail boxed rim tape is about £20 a pair, which is already at least twice the rate for the bulk rolls a workshop should be using.

quoted me £30 per wheel

You do know it's typically £20 to dismount a car tyre, fit and balance a new one, replace the valve, refit the wheel to the vehicle and dispose of the waste, don't you? That process requires far greater expenditure on premises and tooling than a bicycle tyre.

I don't have a car so no. My problem really was whether I was being ripped off for the rim tape