-
Raleigh Twenty or something?
In my experience, forks that are that size usually aren't the sturdiest of things so there's no need for the threaded bar (not that I think this is a very good technique for cold setting anyway*) and you can usually manipulate them pretty easily without anything beyond maybe a firmly bolted down vice.
*I feel like cold setting often involves, as TooTallTim says, going beyond the point you want to be at to account for spring back. I like to 'feel' what the steel is doing which you don't get if you are using something to spread the ends like that.
-
It's lateral symmetry/alignment which is the challenge. As @TooTallTim says using a known true wheel will help. If you have a hole in the bottom of your fork crown and can source the exact right diameter tube to slot into it then you create a third, central leg to compare the two fork legs against. I did this on my tandem forks.
You are reading a single comment by @Alban and its replies.
Click here to read the full conversation.
M_V
Ndeipi
@Alban
Hi. Any tips for cold setting forks? I've got a weird set that are 80mm spacing (not squished - meant to be like this) and want to spread them to 100mm. @sacredhart had the useful advice to do it with threaded rod and nuts/washers, unwinding slowly. Any other tips for getting them straight / wheel well aligned etc?