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• #552
Couple of bits, a mount for a bike light to go underneath my front rack, and a mandrel for use on a lathe to sand/polish rings. Stepped in .5mm diameters.
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• #553
And mounted. On the wrong side as I'm a moron. Not that it matters too much.
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• #554
Planning to order my first printer on pay day. Should be fun
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• #555
How easy would it be to print a piece that attached directly to the light? Then screw it to your rack
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• #556
Almost certainly possible. Designing stuff regularly seems to be the key
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• #557
I need another one, or two of these; will cover postage if anyone can help.
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• #558
I bought the e3d Revo6 kit for my Prusa MK3 over the break. Installation was really easy. Calibration of the bed was all that was required to get going again. I've not tried switching the extruder yet, but I tried it before assembly and it's really quick and easy.
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• #559
I could do them tomorrow evening if there's no huge rush for them
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• #560
Hi
Yes, no rush, that'd be great, thank you. -
• #561
Got a few project ideas that will use more TPU, and will dabble with ABS so time to order some stuff and build an enclosure...
I've got a Micro Swiss direct drive extruder & all metal hotend on the way, and thinking about going the Ikea lack route for enclosure. Once thats setup and working, im considering upgrading my board. At least to a Creality silent board, but considering getting a Duet. Anyone on here used them before? Seems a bit overkill, but also its something that I could take to other printers in the future...
Oh yeah, currently using an Ender 3.
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• #562
i built an enclosure for my old anycubic mega s with a 60x55x60cm ikea platsa cabinet with glass door.
https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/platsa-frame-white-10330972/
I went whole hog and lined it with mass loaded vinyl sandwiched behind some custom cut sheets of mdf to try and muffle the sound and it was pretty decent at keeping things quiet but the cabinet on its own is not a bad start.
looks like they might have discontinued the matching glass door but they do ones 60x64 you could probably bodge on and have the overlap function as a handle maybe.
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• #563
Didn't you mod your mega s to be silent? I could barely hear mine when it was printing next to my desk.
A sound proof enclosure is probably cheaper than noctua fans and new drivers tbh
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• #564
I did both.
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• #565
Ha ha, of course you did. Hatbeard... professional fettler.
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• #566
Has anyone found a source or printed some? The sidi ones are quite spendy
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• #567
Somewhere across London's famous London, the little plastic roundel thing with the Cinelli logo on has fallen out my Cinelli XA stem.
I've looked online and can't see any indication this was ever sold as a spare, on eBay I see people selling paper stickers with the Cinelli on, which obvs won't last 5 mins in our weather, so I figured this looks like the perfect thing that could be done on a 3D printer right? Anyone reckon they'd be able to replicate this complete with logo?
...and here's my stem so its needs to be about this deep
Possible? If yes, then great I can sleep soundly at night, just let me know costs inc post to London, timeframes and anything else I haven't thought of as this is all science fiction to me, thanks. -
• #568
I think I can help you with this, as I fancy myself a connosseur in Cinelli stem accessories :D Drop me a DM, I have an idea how I'd do it. For reference here's my Grammo topcap I just finished now (just testing shapes, will get rid of layer lines)
@HatBeard thanks for the enclosure recommendation! This looks great, I might go this route.
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• #569
I got a queiter board a year or so back for ender 3,not the genuine one, but allows some extra functions like it's on the wifi for printing to, can plug a web cam in though haven't bothered and also a raspberry pi for other functions if you want.
Very quiet, more stable operation and enables a bl touch and feedback to reduce bed warping issues being a problem -
• #570
hey guys,sorry about moron q,how strong 3D printed bits / can be ? As same as hard wood or as some soft metal (alloy, brass )
Or like a solid nylon strength ?
I just cannot get my head around this new tech stuff,sorry I know so little about this / -
• #571
There are so many factors, it is impossible to say. With home 3D printing (Fused Deposition Modelling, FDM) the strength is higher in the plane of the layers, but lower between the layers. This is a bit like in wood where the strength along the grain is higher than across it. Strength can also vary depending on how you design your model. Many larger 3D prints are not completely solid but have some kind of mesh on the inside to save weight and time.
However printing methods like MJF or SLS have very different properties and available materials. The possibilities are huge (and not fully explored yet).
Do you have a particular project or problem in mind? -
• #572
Thank you for taking your time to explain it all :) Much appreciated. I have some project where 3d printing might be solution for some parts then.Are you doing 3d printing yourself,or do you know someone in London ? Thank you :)
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• #573
I'm a materials engineer and have some involvement with 3D printing for work. I think there are a few people on here who might be able to help with printing things locally for you, I live in Switzerland...
But let us know what you're project / problem is and someone will be sure to give some helpful pointers. The tricky part might be the 3D modelling of the part if you don't have any experience doing that. -
• #574
Anyone on here that could do a trial run for me of a small item on a resin printer?
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• #575
Hi
I need Swytch Brompton luggage block mount if anyone can help?
Will make forum donation & pay postage.
Awesome, I'll PM in a bit 😀