Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Yes, that's the one.
But the lever doesn't lock in after tightening and every now and again I have to give the whole thing a tighten. Which doesn't feel optimal.

Looks like it’s missing a something- the little concave nylon washer in the pic.

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Yep it does. Which brings me to the "what now?", I'd have thought a new thru axle compatible with the screw pitch on the other side? Or a new wheel.

Could get a new washer

have you got an old qr you can pull apart to get the washer and concave bit?

Zip tie it closed.

Or new bike.

My guy.

Or new bike.
I'm not a golf club member

+1 to this!

Yep it does. Which brings me to the "what now?", I'd have thought a new thru axle compatible with the screw pitch on the other side? Or a new wheel.

I can't see what benefit a new wheel would bring, as you'd still need a thru axle to fit it. Is there any reason why you can't just buy a generic thru axle to replace the existing one?

I've checked my parts box, and I don't have a Novatec QR thru axle, I'm afraid. That being said, the hub won't know what make of thru axle is being used. As long as it's the right length, and has the right thread at the end, the hub doesn't care.

A new Thru-axle will be fine. Check here in case it helps you get the measurements you need to buy a new one. It doesn't have to be a Novatec one to work. In fact it seems prefereable to not get the same seeing as it has already failed once...

Benefit - me neither
New axle - yeah, it's the pitch at the end isn't it?

I think because finding a generic axle might be tricky it's easier to do the wheel path.

it's easier to do the wheel path.

Axles are bike/fork specific now darling, your new wheel wouldn't come with one. Robert axle project linked to above seem to make the biggest variety, although often ain't the cheapest.

I have become Dammit.

no ones stopping you from buying a Thru axle then building a bike around it

I think because finding a generic axle might be tricky it's easier to do the wheel path.

BrandX ones from Wiggle or CRC seem fine provided you can get the right length and thread.

Thanks again!

Planning my first wheelbuild was wondering if someone wouldnt mind checking over my plan for a dt r460 / formula front hub build?

@M_V mentioned the r460s had a difference in stated ERD @ 596mm (595.5 on freespoke) and measured ERD @ 592mm, was planning on just using a calculator and ordering a formula hub and some sapim race at whatever length it calculated.

With the freespoke calc and 32 hole, 3 cross, formula front hub, I get 288.1 using the stated ERD and 286.4 for M_Vs measured ERD. Does this sound about right to order some 286mm spokes? or do I need to get measuring myself?
Cheers!

592 is about right if you use conventional nipples, as opposed to the Torx ones, or whatever they are called.
I havent calculated, but the spokes seem a tiny bit short for a 32 3 cross. I seem to recall that Archetype, same ERD used to build front at 290 with most hubs… but then again, been a long time…

592 is about right if you use conventional nipples, as opposed to the Torx ones, or whatever they are called.

How does nipple choice affect erd?

I thought the difference might be washers v no washers.

The squorx nipples by DT need different spoke length, as i understand, so that is built in the ERD for convenience. i am not sure this is the case for DT 460 though. Pretty sure it is for the 511, as they came with those nipples when I ordered them

Hmmm, changing the erd seems like poor form, it’s bound to create confusion as this discussion shows.

The erd should be the erd and the nipples should come with a disclaimer to increase calculated spoke lengths by Xmm.

This deserves some recognition.

agree, but their point is that those rims should be built with those nipples… i didnt use them because they dont work with a conventional spoke key