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• #5502
Has any Portland Design Works users had issues with fitting to them with a bike with discs? My LBS, who generally are excellent, have been unable to fit a pair of Full Metal Fenders to my Mason.
Thanks.
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• #5503
Would think you just need to use spacers to clear the callipers.. where are the mounts on the mason?
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• #5504
I don't think so, no. The mounts are midway up the fork leg, so well clear of the calliper.
It's just the front btw, they've managed to fit the rear. The mechanic said something about not being able to cut the mudguard stays.
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• #5505
Any suggestions for getting this raw flap to follow the curve of the wheel a little bit better? The guard is annoyingly short so it sticks out at a weird angle. I've attempted to gently bend it by wrapping a couple of cable ties around the wheel and flap in the shape I want it but no luck. Gently melt it slightly with a hairdryer or something?
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• #5506
Heat gun mebbe
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• #5507
Could attach it with more of the flap inside the guard?
Or make small cuts in the sides around where it transitions from curved to flat possibly -
• #5508
Both good ideas!
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• #5509
able to cut the mudguard stays
as they are halfway up the fork i guess the stays are too long. in theory he could trim them if needed; but i think the stays would also need bending a bit?
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• #5510
I never had any issues with them - they were the easiest mudguards to install.
The mechanic said something about not being able to cut the mudguard
stays.Hmm, any hacksaw will do that.
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• #5511
Quick question: I've fitted SKS Bluemels to a frame with traditional horizontal dropouts. Is there a neat way to tuck the rear mudguard tighter to the wheel at the chainstay bridge, whilst giving you a chance of getting the wheel off on the roadside? I'd thought of using a longer bolt and rubber washer between the bridge and mudguard, but that'd trap the wheel in the dropout.
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• #5512
I've used a longer bolt with a small spring between the bridge and the mudguard. The spring gives you a bit of room to push the mudguard forward when taking the wheel out.
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• #5514
Ah cheers guys, thanks, will give this a go.
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• #5515
I just wait till I get a flat, much easier to get the wheel in or out
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• #5516
Fitted mudguards to my Bootzipper at the weekend. Involved frame/fork drilling and making brackets up from 2mm galvanised steel.
Happy with the front, but the rear needs to be closer. Guard’s could do with being wider, but still way better than none at all. CSB
If anyone wants some cheap SKS 54mm alu guards in Bristol let me know. I now have two sets.
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• #5517
can anyone recommend a u-brake that would have clearance for 26*2.1 with mudguard
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• #5518
What options are there for bikes with no clearance for mudguards?
For reference, 26" mtb converted to 650B. Constantly has a saddlebag and a front rack w/ basket attached which sort of work as partial mudguards - so the critical parts with no protection at all are the space behind the seat tube and under the downtube.
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• #5519
Convert back to 559 : )
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• #5520
I did start a mudguard project for my cyclocrosser to use it more as a normal city bike (and I am really bored since I broke one of back bones and can't do anything for 6 weeks apart from 'light' DIY stuff). So these solutions I used; currently only the back one is ready after DAYS. I also looked through all 221 pages here, I think the solution for the bottom mount point I saw here on one of the first pages. The tires are little bit to big for the mudguards, not vice-versa. Maybe some 32mm tires?
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• #5521
I'd ride it like that.
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• #5522
can anyone recommend a u-brake that would have clearance for 26*2.1 with mudguard
Two months late ... Try a pair of Suntour Roller Cam? I have 559x50 tyres on my tandem, the brakes can clear the mudguard if you set the cam height just right. Tyres need to be deflated to remove wheel though.
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• #5523
PS I realise these aren't a U Brake. But they fit the same bosses i.e. above the rim.
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• #5524
this is really helpful, thanks!
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• #5525
YW!
Hard to find, though. There’s a silver XCD pair in NJ USA for about £80, likely there’ll be import tax too. The older style, more elegant XC ones seem to go for a lot. Presumably the caliper was thickened to reduce flex. I lucked out when I needed a pair, found a UK seller, NOS XCD pair for £50. They are out there. And they’re great, riding a tandem with just these for stopping, even with luggage have been great. I love them! Even been thinking about building an entirely new bike with them. Which would be totally stupid.
Honjo made in Japan
Velo Orange made in Taiwan (last time I checked)
Mostly down to preference I suppose, they’re both great quality.
I tried out some Hebie fenders a little while ago, pretty tidy and easy to fit.