Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Nice, I’d say hammer the torx in a bit first to create a bit of a form for it to sit in, then attach to hilka impact driver thing and hammer that in. With every hit on the top just make sure it’s reset before hitting it again, (and twisting in the right direction!) it works great ime

Is the head chewed up? Only go the torx route if it is. Otherwise you’re reducing your options.

I believe heat breaks down threadlock unless it’s specifically heat resistant.

Heads are fine, and are actually hex, so no torx involved.

Ah sorry when you said they are soft I assumed rounded off, silly me.

A fair assumption, entire heads have actually snapped off some of them, making everything much trickier.

Does this hope connector exist in a format that is 8mm (fine) both sides? I’d quite like to use it with a shimano lever if it works. No biggie tho can use shimano stuff if it’s not

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Treat yourself to a neji-saurus

https://youtu.be/5ZJ_69RIDv8

anyone in south east london have a spare single v-brake or mtb canti arm, the arm onto which you clamp the wire,that they can give me?

A dab of screw grab.

I bought second hand SRAM RIVAL hydro shifters 1x11 (not from here). The rear brake works fine but the front quickly weakens and the pads get shiny - bleeding fixes it temporarily but braking quickly gets spongy again.

I'm guessing there is a leak somewhere on the system although it's not clear where. Is there a bike shop/ mechanic in London (preferably north!) that might be able to have a look a fix it? I've seen a few videos of replacing the rubber seals but not sure I'd be capable of it myself...

For London rates it is hardly worth your while or a shops time to attempt what may not be a guaranteed repair. I'm all for fixing but in an area of £50-60 per hour labour Vs an £80 lever it's easier to buy new.

Thanks that's really helpful - I thought that might be the case. Unfortunately the cheapest I can find a replacement lever is about £200 if I can find one at all as they always seem to be out of stock :(

Putting a 130mm wheel in a 126mm dropout gap... just squeeze it in there? Steel frame so should be fine right?

Yeah

https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/GBSRRVHD22XYZ/sram-rival-(2x)-hrd-hydraulic-disc-brake-caliper--shifter#GBSRRVHD22XYZ-RE2-1900-20PP

3mm either side. It won’t matter, it’s a tiny difference.

Nice.

Yeah, thought as much but wanted to make sure. Cheers.

Do you end up with a floppy lever? Might not be obvious as the spring in the shifter could stop it from doing this.

Yes the lever is very floppy and needs to be pulled right back to engage the caliper

83mm SRAM GXP BBs are reduced on Wiggle atm. Can I buy one, remove the plastic spacer and fit a 68/73 spacer from my old BB to the new cups and get a cheap BB. Or are the cups different dimensions?

It’s a known issue, the piston gets stuck. A relatively easy fix if you’re mechanically minded. Take a look at this vid from SRAM themselves. I find the hardest part is reinstalling the circlip at the end.

https://youtu.be/z36N0M1sWw0

Got a second hand Raleigh royal for my partner. She wanted to swap drop bars for upright, so I've tried fitting a new riser stem. It won't go in beyond the minimum insertion point. Have tried different stems , the only one that seems to be safe to use is the one it came with (not a riser stem, and 26mm clamp so can't use it with the handlebars I have). Thinking perhaps it was over tightened at some point and now the fork steerer is bent/notched somehow. Thoughts? Fixable? Time for a new fork? I'm wondering if it can be reamed out slightly, but not sure if that's something a bike shop would be happy to do

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Have you taken the fork out to inspect it?

No I haven't. Kind of hesitant to do that since I attempted a headset service on a different bike and lost half the loose bearings to the gaps between the decking in my yard... If I were to take the fork out, any idea what I'd be looking for?