Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

Works well, Thanks. Not sure I would have thought of this solution

Anyone got a 26” / 559 kinlin adhn rim to hand? I’d like to buy the spokes and rim all in one go from cyclebasket but don’t really trust their ERD measurement.

Rear Kinlin xr31t lasted less than 6 months - has a massive brake track bulge. I don’t remember hitting anything particularly bad, so not entirely sure what’s happened.

I found it horribly stiff compared to the a23 it replaced so not really sorry to see it go. I’ll replace it with something shallow - maybe stay with Kinlin and go for the xr22.

It’s a 32 hole hub, and I’ve never had an issue with anything I’ve put on in the past (dt 1.1, open pro, archetype, etc), so not massively worried about the shallower depth

650b rims: disc brake, wouldn't mind trying tubeless, not fussed about weight/material/colour.

Kinlin RD 3FT fit the bill, just wondered if there was anything else I should consider.

That’s what’s I have, no problems seating wtb and teravail tyres, nice and wide.

Maybe something cheap from superstar?

Great, thanks!

And thanks n3il I'll have a look, but isn't (within reason) and issue and they're for a "nice" bike, so I'd like something with a smattering of tarty.

Building my first dynamo-hubbed 700c wheel, likely a 32 hole SP PV-8 to a Kinlin XM-250 (both from Spa, £73 + £30), 3-cross with Cyclebasket's ACI or whichever db spokes.

To check.... are there any special building considerations because it's a dynamo hub?

If anyone knows of low priced improvements on the above choices, I'd be grateful to hear.

Thanks!

are there any special building considerations because it's a dynamo hub?

Nope !

Lovely, thank you!

Wheelbuild help: I'd like to get a few pointers please if thats okay!
A few questions.
Currently trying to lace a Kinlin RD 3FT onto an Erase rear disc hub. My 2nd build and I'm struggling!
I'll refer to this looked at from the drive-side.
The holes are offset. The 1st hole forward of the valve is offset to the non-drive.
Is that common? Most how-to's seem to start with a drive side spoke in that hole.
Also looking at the hub (its 2nd hand has been laced previously),
The drive-side trailing spokes were laced heads in, but heads out on the non-drive? Is this common also?
I have a nasty feeling I've overreached but there again I went through that feeling with my first build! Cheers all!

I’m no pro but Sheldon’s site has never let me down, he gives clear instructions about how to lace offset holes and how which side of the valve hole they’re on affects the pattern.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

ha at least one question answered! You're right Sheldon is/was the guy!

First forward of the valve, so to the right if the valve is at the top is NDS. Normally you start with the hole on the left, if the valve is at the top and that is DS. Killing rims are normally drilled that way… you didn’t buy a rim for 2:1 triplet lacing, by any chance? They only come in 24 holes.
Head in or head out in a crossed pattern makes no difference, some build the two sides in the same way, some don’t.

Kinlin….

Hi thanks for this info. Wheel in question is a 28 rear.
Am beginning to see the light here and worry less where circs differ from 'the manual'. The Sheldon Brown guide does indeed say that the lead spoke location may not be the 1st after the valve (DS) and as you've said clearly some people start to the left of the valve. Having now looked at some kinlins on a shop built wheel they are laced heads facing DS on both flanges with crossing spokes heads faced away.
Your point about 24 holes raises an issue as I bought a 24 for the front wheel so will have to address this one way or another, and find out what triplet 2:1 is. Theres already an issue with the number of crosses there.
Cheers and thanks for your help

Just had a look and it seems that 24h rims can be used for 2:1 with a 36 hub but not exclusively.
I made a mistake in calculating the spoke length for this. 3x can't be used with the flange diameters I have on a 650b rim. The crossing spoke would be going over the spoke head next to it.
So plan is at the moment to go 2x on the front and recalculate spoke lengths.

Some people say that you have to be careful not to have very disparate spoke tensions, since the gaps between the magnets on the spindle and the magnets on hub shell are small, so you need to be careful not to distort the hub shell. That may well be twaddle and you should try to have even spoke tension anyway, so take it with a pinch of salt.

What's the cheapest set of components that you would consider would build up into a decent wheel I.e. would be worth putting the effort into building. I'm after a set of 700c, rim brake, 9-speed wheels (traditional spoke count, wide-ish road/touring rims) and I'm considering building my own.

A pair of Shimano Sora hubs, Rigida Ryde Zac 2000 rims, and ACI Alpina spokes currently comes in at £106, which seems steep given that I'd be putting in all the labour. Are there any cheaper options that wouldn't represent a big drop in quality?

Are there any cheaper options

No, I think you've probably plumbed the depths there 🙂
Nothing wrong with any of those components, they will build a decent pair of wheels if you do your job. To save any money in the centre you're dropping into either Shimano or chinesium OEM hubs which would be a false economy. If you want to waste a whole day shopping around to save £7, http://www.mach1.fr/en/rims/univer-u0/style-s0 & https://rodicycling.com/en/rims/ have models you could try to seek out which are the equal of Ryde.

Thanks, that was my impression too. Quando seem to be the next (branded) step down for hubs and Alexrims for rims, but finding any information on those is pretty tricky, which doesn't inspire confidence.

finding any information on those is pretty tricky

Because they're not really interested in aftermarket. If you want a few thousand units, drop Kun Teng (or Joy Industrial) a line, they'll probably laser your logo on the hub shells too 🤣

I wouldn't think so - call spokes 50p each, so ~£34 for two wheels worth, and you're down to £72. For argument's sake divide that by 4 for the remaining components, two hubs two rims, and that's £18 per item. There probably isn't a lot worth having and building in to your own wheels for less than that, assuming all new.

Alpina Spokes are already £0.25 each +£6 postage from cyclebasket

Hubs question, if you please - I've got some Hunt wheels and am thinking about upgrading the hubs (partly because I'm a bit bored of the noise the freehub makes, and partly just more general boredom!) but keeping the rims, but am running a bit of a blank at finding any decent quality hubs in 20 / 24 (disc thru axle).

What if anything is out there in the more interesting / blingy type realm if anything? Any suggestions welcome!