Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Thanks for the offer, this is a one-use deal (Ekar to Di2 transplant) and the bike is packed up now anyway so no bother.

hippy, bin campag

Loobtoob

Are you new here?

I have one Shimano disc caliper with sticky pistons, and one without.
If I unbolt them both at the hose, don't trim the hose, and just swap them over, am I likely to get away with it?
(They're on opposite side levers, so I can't swap the whole brake assembly across.)

You'll almost certainly be reet.

Does anyone know what bearings I need to order for the Gran-Compe II rear hub?
Somehow google was not able to get any results for my question?!

pop off one of the dustcaps and check the number written on the bearing itself. it should be something like "6000 RS" or "6001 2RS". I couln't find the info online, too

A question for the wheel builders. Hit a pothole over the weekend and bent the rim on my wheel. Its a rim brake wheel and I am wondering if it is worthwhile trying to fix the wheel by bending it back of if this means the wheel is compromised and I should just re-place.

So many potholes out there combined with the we weather its almost inevitable.....

If you can't fix it with the spokes, and with the tension on those spokes being even, and it's not an emergency, then replace the rim.

Why do so many tyres have a discrepancy in the width between the '700c' listing and the ETRTO listing?

EG, this Schwalbe Land Cruiser is listed as 700 x 35 but 622 x 37

Similarly, this CST tyre is listed as 700 x 40 but 42 - 622.

If you google 'ETRTO tyre sizes' or anything like that all the explanations suggest that the width should not change, ie, a 700 x 35 tyre should be a 622 x 35 or a 26 x 2" should be a 559 x 50 and actually, for the 26" tyres it does seem to ring true, every tyre that SJS have listed as 26" x 2" is also shown as 559 x 50 so why the difference with 700c/622 tyres?

AFAIK its 6000 2RS and there's a tutorial here how to replace them https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/199359/

Beers in the post please! ;)

Its a rim brake wheel and I am wondering if it is worthwhile trying to fix the wheel by bending it back of if this means the wheel is compromised and I should just re-place.

In an emergency, you could try dissassembling the wheel, bending the rim straight, and rebuilding it again. A friend did this in a campsite in Canadian Rockies, his only tools a spoke key and a park bench, many years ago. However, if the rim is actually bent, then unless you're in a campsite in the middle of Fucking Nowhere in Canada, you'd be better off rebuilding it with a new rim.

Or, in fewer words, what Snotters said...

It's likely the tyre compound, a Schwalbe Marathon or Plus is ALWAYS bigger than any other makes. The 35 is 37 and the 38 is 40.

It's likely the tyre compound,

I know that manufacturer's stated widths are not always true to real life but I just want to know why the size stated differs between the regular (700c x ... ) and the etro (622 x ...) sizes.

I'll get you an answer! No joke!

https://www.lfgss.com/comments/12270960/

I was wondering this 8 years ago and still don't know the answer.
Edit: on the sidewall of Schwalbe tyres it actually says both numbers, so 40 and 42 (on the same tyre) for example

In an emergency, you could try dissassembling the wheel, bending the rim straight, and rebuilding it again.

Fuck that for a laugh, I'd just twat the bent bit on the floor really hard, maybe stand on it a bit, then true it up as well as possible, then forget you broke it and carry on playing polo on it for another month.

For the ETRTO designation, the stated width should the 'nominal section width' i.e.'the section width from sidewall to sidewall of an inflated tyre on its theoretical rim'. It may be that the other size being stated is the 'overall width' which is basically the tread width.
In ETRTO, they only describe this for tyres where the tread is wider than the sidewall. This is what I have found WTB do for example with the Venture tyre. The ETRTO measurement is 37-622 for the casing, but the tread is 700x40.

Interesting comment from Bicycler about half way down this page with the table posted, about conversions from imperial.

https://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.php?t=100928

That makes sense for a knobbly tyre, not so much for a slick.

Even that WTB Venture it doesn’t look like the tread is really any wider than the casing.

Even that WTB Venture it doesn’t look like the tread is really any wider than the casing.

It is on mine.

I could see it working for a skinny tyre if the tread is narrower than the sidewall section width. But in any case, it's a confusing way to designate a tyre size.

Thank you for the advice. Much appreciatted

Sadly not in a Campsite in the Rockies so new rim it is. Was thinking of going on a wheel building course so looks like the way forward. Thanks for the advice. Best website ever

This.
Is the correct thing to do, if the rim got bent into that shape from a sharp impact, then it shall return the other way from a sharp impact. Tensioning fuck out of spokes to try and haul it back into line will likely result in carnage.

Number of wheels saved by whacking hell out of them on a rubber mat on the floor over past 5 years if likely over 100