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• #527
the gaggia drip tray i printed held water without leaking as I did a 24hr test before I dared use it. I only emptied it once a week or so.
was printed in petg at 0.16 layer height I think.
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• #528
with a bed-slinger (one where the bed goes back and forth) you need clearance at the back and front so the footprint can be larger than the machine itself. a core-xy (where the bed goes up/down) will be self enclosed and asides from the filament which varies in placement will be the total size you need to house it.
if you were careful in how you handled it picking it up by the base and not the gantry you shouldn't need to calibrate it each time as they are fairly solidly constructed and should stay true. I've moved mine up and down the stairs without incident before
but if it fits in the cupboard you could probably just run power to there and use it in-situ keeping the door propped open for ventilation if needed. even just buying a long kettle lead to run in through the open door when in use.
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• #530
Just pre-ordered the P1P we'll see how this goes.
Just got a DPD tracking number. Checking the website again, looks like they've sold all the early bird packages (with the cam/fan gifts).
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• #531
Have a look at delta style machines. I have a FLSUN Q5 and it takes up a 12 inch triangle in a corner and needs no clearance around it.
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• #532
my x1c was sent by yodel (ffs) and is due to arrive in an hour (despite getting tracking on monday)
I assume you got the early bird then? looked like a pretty good deal with all that thrown in. seems like fairly easy prints needed to affix all the bits, if the printers are as plug and play and fast as they say you'll be sorted in no time. the customisable printed side panel looks awesome too.
this weekend I'll be printing the box to catch the "poop" offcuts when it primes the nozzle for a print and a side mounted spool holder so I don't have to faff around at the back of the machine to change filaments.
loads of printable bits for p1p and x1 on printables.com
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• #533
Oh I really do!
But I've only got about 25 quid until payday. If you can wait until later this month and post it I'd love it. -
• #534
Yes. The early bird box just arrived (while I was having my friday avro nap) without any doorbell or signature, drop and run style. Hope DPD doesn't take the same approach with the big box (or has it been stolen already? dun dun dunnn)
I've started slowly bookmarking what to print as a start, lots of SMD strip holders etc. My last stint with a 3D was with an Ultimaker at an old job 6+ years ago, so lots of "oats to saw" in this space.
I don't think printing a side panel (or two) would be good use of time or filament, maybe print a bunch of holders to be able to slide in a sheet of plexi (or Karndean click LVT, as I might have some offcuts) in between, I don't know.
Side mounted spool holder sounds smart if you're enclosing it in a cupboard etc. After the initial setup and the obligatory benchy I'm planning to move it to the garage where noise isn't an issue, but to keep the heat in I might need the side panels one way or the other.
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• #535
this weekend I'll be printing the box to catch the "poop" offcuts when it primes the nozzle for a print and a side mounted spool holder so I don't have to faff around at the back of the machine to change filaments.
A box or a chute/slide? https://www.printables.com/model/349944-p1p-rectum-beta
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• #536
Cheers and @grams
I was thinking of a wardrobe or kitchen cupboard so probably not that practical to use in situ.
That FLSUN Q5 does look pretty small footprint and I would have space to leave it out but not sure I'd be able to convince my girlfriend of that as it is also pretty tall.
Is there any dummies guide out there with the different types and what the different filaments are and what prints what (or does everything print everything) and stuff?
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• #537
Is there any dummies guide out there with the different types and what the different filaments are and what prints what (or does everything print everything) and stuff?
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLDJMid0lOOYnkcFhz6rfQ6Uj8x7meNJJx
This playlist looks alright, 4th episode has a section dedicated to filament types. -
• #538
absolutely i'm in no rush, just ping me whenever you get paid. £15 posted sound reasonable?
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• #539
mine arrived today, threw me for a loop as the guy just handed over the second order I made for the extra build plates and a spare hotend assembly but no printer after I'd tracked the no for my printer order which said it was due when he knocked but there was a second van in the area one street over who turned up 5 minutes later.
setup was very easy but I got ahead of myself and tried to jump in with the textured pei sheet instead of the cool plate as I hate using glue stick etc but the lidar can't do the flow calibration stuff on textured sheets so the benchy was a mess. then I tried with the cold sheet and it didn't adhere with the glue stick so i changed tact and printed the included bed scraper which came out perfectly. i'm gonna steer clear of the benchy while i get a feel for the machine as it is super aggressive in its movements and feels much more like a stress test when I just want simple prints in decent quality as fast as possible.
the poop bucket and chute i'm printing tomorrow are these...
https://www.printables.com/model/254061-bambu-lab-purgeflushpoop-bucket-for-x1-or-x1-carbo
https://www.printables.com/model/349568-bambu-lab-magnetic-chute-cover-remix-8x3-magnets
1 Attachment
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• #540
P1P arrived this morning, while fiddling with it I managed to pop out the latch of the camera cable socket... Couldn't get it back on, gave up and printed some things (after moving to garage immediately) like the fan support and x1-style ptfe passthrough (so that I can put a top cover on) and of course the benchy. Came out alright.
Was outside most of the afternoon, after coming home I went back in and removed the whole WiFi board (behind the screen, had to take out two socketed cables and an antenna) to be able to work on it with both hands. Taking the PCB out/in took more time than remounting the latch (in a warmer and well lit environment). All done fairly quickly.
Now I'm printing the LED light supports, somebody modified the defaults (of course) and I'm printing those. Still have to put the tube passthrough to use, I had the whole back cover off etc. while mounting the extra fan (which is pointless in the garage temps, but I had to in order to not lose it), but forgot about that completely.
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• #541
nice. sounds like you're getting to grips with it which is good as the p1p definitely feels like the modders version of the printer so knowing it well can only help.
I printed a build plate holder then when I went to open my high temp plate to store it in it I noticed the cheeky cunts have sent me a 2nd hand one as it was already opened and resealed (badly) with sellotape, whoever opened it also took out the protective card sheets to stop it getting damaged so the corner is completed fucked (only for like 3mm but I paid for a new one) couldn't find a proper support email so sent a message through the general inquiries link in the chat bubble on their site, curious to see how they respond as I'm still on the fence about buying an AMS when I next get paid.
the build plate holder came out very well for a machine I haven't done a single calibration to myself yet and in about 2.5 hours the stacking of the layer lines is a little wobbly but i'm using pla+ on the pla setting so it might need a few extra degrees and the trolley may be introduce a little wobble into the mix too.
immediately jumped into printing the poop box i linked up the page, about 40% in and due to finish about 11pm. given the noise it puts out (mostly the part cooling fan i think) any over night prints will be done on "silent mode" but mostly I'll just aim to start prints when I get up so they're done well before bed time.
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• #542
Yeah, P1P feels like (and priced like, almost) the modder's version. But about the camera latch, there are a million ZIF ribbon cable socket options and they chose a bad one, by accident or probably to shave a few cents on the BOM. If nobody gets the camera module it might cover the cost of support and headache they'll have to endure, but for the "early bird"s (where it's supplied free) it will be a common occurance: When you're setting up a printer you are not using fine motor skills, you're lifting/pushing things (printer/packaging) around and taking out/putting in screws and parts. Not the most phone-repairshoplike sensitivity mode. And the inconvenient location of the socket where you can't get both hands in is also a factor here.
Just ordered 2 more spools of PLA and one PETG from Overture, wanted to use good/known materials to begin with. Could've also gone with Prusament.
The aux fan makes it too cold in the garage so had to turn it off immediately after seeing the light support print's spaghetti. Glad I checked early, had to restart. Also switched to the SoftFever fork of BambuStudio from day one, maybe too early.
BTW there's a speed option in the Bambu Studio window where you observe the print. The "100%" speedometer sign on the right "Control" box is clickable. It doesn't allow me to adjust it while printing is active, but I suspect if you paused the print you could change it to ludicrous and get some time back. Changing speed mid-print could also affect the result adversely, not sure.
Sad to hear about the 2nd hand plate, let us know how they respond. I reckon you could send it back for a refund anyway.
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• #543
yesterdays prints:
https://imgur.com/a/6vgicoy
https://imgur.com/a/K2tzCdQI'm already obsessed with this printer. haha
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• #544
Any particular PEI sheet thats the go to favourite? Been using glass and an older magnetic one for a few years, thought I'd try one! Glass sometimes prints won't stick even with ideal conditions + prit stick, other times sticks too well and have to resort to chemicals to get them off without damage.
Magnetic bed would somehow warp sometimes and prints would fail a lot in first few layers. -
• #545
I'm a big fan of these https://www.3djake.uk/3djake/flexplate-system-with-nano-coating
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• #546
I will get some- thanks!
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• #547
PLA will be fine too but it'll start to crumble after a year or two depending on how well it dries out between uses.
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• #548
While I'm planning on using Klippr in the not too distant future (whenever the last few config glitches are solved for my particular model) I've found that switching to a 0.8mm nozzle is a good way to nearly halve your print times without losing much detail. As long as you aren't printing things with fine detail, they work out great. And tbh, on a large enough scale, fine detail works out ok most of the time too.
Ideal if you print mostly functional parts like boxes, cases, inserts, bushings, brackets etc. I might even go up to 1mm.
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• #549
Anyone have some time to print this one please? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5398923
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• #550
Sure. DM me
How big are 3d printers (I guess how long is a piece of string but I've seen a few pictures and they look really big), how much do they need assembling/disassembling and how happy are they at being moved around (i.e. being put in a cupboard when not in use)?
Quite like the idea of one for things like Raspberry Pi enclosures but don't have anywhere I could leave it out permanently and know I wouldn't use it if I had to spend ages putting it up and down each time I wanted to use it.