Tubeless Tyres -"saying the same things about tubeless tyres over and over again" Hippy read the first f**king post

Horrible sidewall cut thanks to a sharp metal pipe hidden in a puddle on the trail, both tires at the same time, not worth bodging on the side of the trail, ride over.

Tires (Vittoria Terreno Mix 33c) were quite new, so I decided to try and repair them.

• Cleaned the tear area and lightly rubbed the inside with sandpaper
  
• Sewed up the two ends with nylon thread, including just beyond the ends of the cuts to ensure the tear won't spread under stress.
  
• Welded the ends together with rubberized loctite, which also strengthened the sewing
  
• Applied glue and patch on the inside
  
• Installed the tires dry, both seated normally and held air properly with only some hissing coming from the damaged area, but no visible opening nor bulging at 80psi.
  
• Deflated and added some sealant, holes all sealed up, hissing stopped
  
• Lost 20psi in 2 days, went for a ride, nothing exploded.
  
  

It was a bit of a pain to do (2h for both tires) and probably more of a proof of concept than else. Thought of sharing for reference

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I am! That's really kind of you, I may well take you up on that if I get stuck.

Good work! Will be interesting to see how they hold up over time.

Bought one of these..
https://www.aldi.co.uk/ferrex-portable-compressor/p/815405604340500

Core out. Whack in the air.. 2.6 tyre seated.. unseat the bottom of the tyre.. splash in cheap sealant.. bead the rim.. more air.. put the core back in.. more air.. done in 5 minutes!

As long as the sealant doesn't get under the patch inside that would last the whole life of the tire

Can I take a tubeless tyre off and refit quickly without adding more sealant/ cleaning everything?
Or does it dry up instantly?
Thanks

It will be fine but you would be the first not to spill it everywhere.

Keep wheel in one position for a little bit for sealant to settle in the bottom
Break the bead on one side at the bottom
Suck up sealant with syringe
Remove old tyre
Install new tyre
Inject old sealant if not too old, you will probably need to add a bit more

Did it, I'd put the tyre on the wrong way round, I was able to carefully flip it without spilling any. Thanks.

Has anyone else got any experience with Terravails in the 'light and supple' guise?

I've been running the Rutlands for the last month or so, but the occasions when I've gone for a longer ride in the New Forest, I've had puncture issues. I think I've had 5 punctures over 3 rides, including 2 quite significant cuts to the tread which the sealant has struggled to deal with (one in the front tyre, one in the back) . In both cases, a dynaplug has worked (or sort of worked in the second case - it needed a second plug half way round the ride and has now lost c.10psi overnight).

I suspect I've caught a sharp bit of flint for both of the fairly bad cuts.

What I'm trying to establish is whether this is poor tyre choice for the terrain, that these tyres are particularly flimsy, or whether I've just been unlucky. I'm not especially heavy at 70kg and have been running the tyres at ~37 psi front/40 back with Orange seal.

While I'm at it, what are people recommending these days for reasonable supple tyres that can deal with mud but are also fairly robust?

Ta.

I ran light and supple Ramparts in 650 flavour last summer for audaxes - loved them, though a bit slidey in the wet.

I also tried them a few times on the South Downs way and associated tributaries round my way. I did get a few pin prick punctures but always sealed fine. One day though, a bit of flint sliced a sidewall right up, and plugging attempts just caused the carcass to rip more. I was pushing my luck tbh, and paid the price.

Tldr, I would buy them again despite shredding one.

hidden in a puddle

Say No to mud
Say No to puddles

reasonable supple tyres that can deal with mud but are also fairly robust?

Supple or robust, which do you want?

Sempiternal answer : vittoria terreno mix.

Was waiting for this comment, you're late.

I was hoping for a balance of the two. I've recently used Pirelli Cinturato M which are ok, if a bit garden-hosey and average in mud, as well as these Terravails (probably a bit flimsy).

Ta.

I had a set of light and supple cannonball’s on for about a year and a half. Great tyres. Had very few puncture issues in that time and while most sealed on their own, dynaplugs sorted the rest.

Will get another set when the ground dries out

I've been away.

The only liquid here comes from your own sweat or when you ride over the squishy Pigface plant that's everywhere. It's a kind of succulent with "leaves" that are full of juice. Hence the wet tyre below...

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Not sure if this has been posted before https://youtu.be/tE3h4nmDdOo

But this explanation of ‘fitting the bead on the rim’ was revelatory for me. I’m yet to fail to fit a Road/mtb/gravel tyre doing it this way - the occasional leave with a tube over night aside.

Edit - fitting with a Lidl track pump only

Here to whine. Been tubeless since around 2008 and never encountered this. Bought a front wheel that’s branded tubeless. Set up in usual way. tyre seats. latex spaffs everywhere through join in rim. ring place i bought wheel, they say the tape should contact the tyre hence should cover split. i’m like whah? Firstly, surely, regardless of tubeless, this can’t be OK for a rim. Second, I disagree, the tyre initially contacts the tape then locks against the rim itself. tape obviously seals over spoke holes.

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I had this on a DT R460 or R470 sleeve jointed rim. It's pretty normal for a non-welded rim to open slightly once built and pressurised. I solved it with a dab of CA glue I think. Been riding that rim for 7 years and the problem has not come back.

thank you, hurrumph, will glue, hope rim is bonded together elsewhere!
Edit: now there is latex all over the parts I would want to put glue on, how should I clean up ready for gluing? Is there a sure fire way?

Second, I disagree

Nah, they're actually right, if your tape is the right width, the tyre sealing lip overlaps the tape and the sealant never contacts the metal.
On the other hand, for the reason shown in your picture, I'd never consider a pinned or sleeved rim for tubeless. Stick to welded rims at least, now that everybody has pretty much abandoned making genuine tapeless tubeless rims.

oh
Edit, the more I try to imagine this the more I don't get it