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• #3327
Ah OK. Thanks alot.
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• #3328
We do a lot brake lever replacement and continent to UK brake swaps, very rarely we have to replace the barb and olive.
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• #3329
It'll probably be reet but it's worth having the spares to hand in case it ain't.
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• #3331
Does anyone know how wide/thick these adapters normally are? I have one (generic) one on the rear of an Inbred and its 10,9mm and pushes the brake too far to one side.
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• #3332
Is there any paint on the disc tab?
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• #3333
Can I use
130bcd power 2 max type s power meter for Rotor 3D+ (bb30/bbright) cranks with 53x38 Q rings.In a
BB386 evo frameWith a converter of some sort?
Which one?
Ta -
• #3335
Ta
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• #3336
Not all Rotor cranks are compatible with BB386 frames and can potentially foul the chainstay, even if you get the correct BB for the frame. Ask me how I know this.
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• #3337
I’ll swerve this then
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• #3338
Similar issue on my wife's ebike, except the adaptor isn't wide enough so caliper is too far outboard. And it raises the caliper too high, so the pads overhang. That's how it came stock from Dawes... 🙄👍
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• #3339
AND sorted! ;)
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• #3340
🥳🥳 sweeeet thanks!
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• #3341
More crank questions, sorry!
I have this crankset that has a boost chainring on. I think I’m supposed to be able to swap the chainring on there for a non-boost 6mm offset ring, but I don’t know the standard… Googling suggests SRAM but their chainrings seem only compatible with something called an “Eagle” chain..?
Can anyone spot from this image what I’ve got and could recommend a 6mm replacement?Edit: supposed to sit in a non-boost frame with 1x11 M5100 Deore
Edit 2: Added another image - it might say “bc”? Thanks @snottyotter
Thanks!
2 Attachments
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• #3342
That's not a great photo or much info on the crank, but a lot of cranks use the same 3 bolt fitting for spiders or direct mount chainrings, take it off and double check the pattern.
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• #3343
You want one of these or similar: http://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/collections/mountain/products/direct-mount-chainrings-for-sram-cranks
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• #3344
Thank you!
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• #3345
How do you remove Ekar cranks? I glanced at them and don't see pinch bolts.
I also presume the BB for Ekar doesn't use a Shimano spline tool to remove it?
Looking to strip Ekar off the Bokeh to get ready for Di2 install. I don't want to buy any tools for it but anything I can do will save LBS time.
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• #3346
I believe it's the same design as an Ultra Torque road crankset, so a bolt tightened up clockwise from inside the non drive side arm. Obviously there's a tool made to fit that costs ten million dollars, but from memory it's a 10mm allen key fitting. The drive side crank will have a safely circlip that'll need removing before you can extract the crank.
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• #3347
[Posted in a separate thread so apols for duplication but this one might be more appropriate]
Hi All.
After too much googling I thought it'd be easier to ask here.
I have a stock campagnolo (zonda i think) wheel with an 11 speed shimano freehub which has recently died.
I'd love to replace it but can't work out what to buy.
I know I need a spline pattern which will take the same shimano cassette but I can't work out what I need to know in terms of wheel/freehub compatibility.
FWIW the dead one has 3 pawls but beyond that I don't know what I don't know!
Any advice / links very much appreciated.
K
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• #3348
10mm allen key I can manage but how do I remove the circlip? Is it kinda obvious where it sits? (happy to ride across a country but the bike is in another room and I can't be arsed getting up to look)
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• #3349
You could ask these guys if it will work:
https://www.7hundred.co.uk/components/hubs/campagnolo-freehub-bodies-and-spares__8946
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• #3350
Pull it, probably with needle nose pliers, it's a big lad that goes around the BB shell.
You can't change the olive without cutting the old one off the hose. So it will become 1,5cm shorter or so. But if the olive that's one there now doesn't look too deformed you can get away with reusing it.