Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Try a Tiagra, I know the rear one has the same pull, possibly the front too?

Also, very possible I could get you a 4600 or 5700 FD. Ping me a PM.

FD r7000 is a totally different beast, its a toggle mech, they work very well vs conventional 10/11s front mechs with the huge arm that sticks up, but only for R7000/R8000/R9000> 11s groups. I think current gen tiagra 10 shifter (r5000?) will also work, slight difference in cage width of the 10 vs the 11, but nothing a tiny bit of bending can't fix :P

You need a tiagra front mech, the old gen, 4500 or 4600 series should work fine. For rear mechs with that system try to find an old good 9s mtb rear mech (close enough) or again a tiagra 4500 or 4600 works too. 105 5700 and ult 6700 were both kinda bum groupsets, they rely on having extremely good cable routing and quality of cables, perfect chain (and orientation!), perfect mech hanger alignment and the shifter to have not disingegrated internally*

*Saw loads of Ult 6700 left hand shifters fall apart inside due to a bolt or a nut that the assembly rotates on coming loose. If you catch it in time you can do a DIY fix and it'll be fine, but if you leave it the whole lot grenades itself. RH STI's would just get heavier and heavier, or break due to bad cables/high friction.

I'm currently using a 5800 FD with r8000 shifters which just about works. I'm up for a swap if that works for you?

@coventry_eagle I think I’ve found a couple of local forumers with potential solutions should be confirmed tomorrow. Cheers for the offer though!

@BrickMan Ah fair enough, I bought a cheap winter road bike with 10spd 5700 on here sans FD. Hopefully nothing goes kaput on me…

@Pifko I think I’ve found a 5700 on here for cheapz. Happy to sell you the R7000 mind, I bought it from Stelfox on here for £15 new and unused, I’ve mounted it and failed to get it working obviously, would be fine losing a 5er and selling it to you for £10 (which absorbs the cost of the 5700 fd and the missing link i’m going to have to buy to remove the R7000 and rescue my new chain hehe)

Is it braze on or band on? 👍

Band on 31.8/28.6

Ah nvm I need braze on 😕

Actually, what I really need is a replacement r8000 limit screw after mine disintegrated...

bit late, but in case it helps. looks like the blue bike has a slightly different model stem than yours, which I have here, i'll attach a photo. the clamping area does not have parallel edges like on yours, dunno which came first or which one is more prone to failure, but i suspect they will behave quite differently.

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i have a collection of band on 10spd front derailleurs, all 5700 era if not actually 5700, £15 each but have to wait for after xmas which you probably don’t want to

Ah nice one, thanks for taking the time to post. Definitely seems like my stem nicked the handlebars because the clamp loosened.

What I've done to be sure is run a fine file across the clamping edges then covered with gloss black Tamiya model paint.

Bottom bracket length question
I'd like to move the chainset from this Orbea Team MX 24: https://99spokes.com/bikes/orbea/2019/mx-24-team-usa to an Orbea Laufey 27 H20: https://99spokes.com/en-GB/bikes/orbea/2022/laufey-27-h20

Bottom bracket on the Team MX 24 (9-speed) is 68/110 - removed the crankset to measure today.
Laufey (10-speed) has something that seems to look like a SM-BB52 external bottom bracket that will need swapping to a square taper - and the shell width is 73 mm.

Now to my conundrum - MX24 is 135 mm rear spacing, while the Laufey (the bike getting the chainset) is boost 148 mm.

To get proper chainline I've tried following this OneUp guide but can't for the life of me figure out what spindle width I should purchase for the bottom bracket to go in the Laufey boost bike. Can anyone assist with the maths here?

TLDR; Chainline solve x: 135mm 68/110 = 148mm 73/1xx

EDIT: I do realize I should've measured the chainline when the chainset was still on the small bike - but missed this. If this measurement is essential I can get it but would of course prefer not to remount everything again :)

From that OneUp guide link:

Boost 148 was created to give frame makers more design freedom for tire and front derailleur clearance. From a drivetrain perspective it moves the cassette 3mm away from the frame centerline. The new ideal chainline for Boost bikes is 51-53mm.

To increase the chainline by 3 mm you should buy a BB with spindle 6 mm longer than before. 110 mm before means 116 mm now.

As you have said, the only way to be sure would be to remount the BB onto the old frame, tighten down the crank again and measure chainline. It's a 10 minute exercise including removing everything again. You don't even need to put the left BB cup in. If you find 49 mm then you know you need 52mm chanline for the new bike.

Note: The 68 mm vs 73 mm shell width doesn't make a difference to chainline, only the length of the BB spindle matters.

Just buy better cranks innit.

Thank you so much for this!

Will refit chainring side today (left the bb in the small bike as I imagined it would be too short anyhow)

Have looked at all kinds of guides for sub 155 mm cranks and can’t find anything that’s both better and fits boost.
Vpace look good but only come in boost 155 and over. With a Raceface n/w on these cranks weight penalty is about 70 grams compared to the Vpace 155 mm.
Although - would these fit the current BB: https://www.vpace.de/en/vpace-children-s-crankset-incl.-chainring
We could probably live w/ 3 mm to avoid changing bottom brackets :)

Also had my eye on Kids who race (or something website) but I think Brexit has made those a little uncertain when it comes to budget.

Didn't realise you needed short ones, hope make 155 now if you want some bling. Otherwise, ignore the shell width apart from buying the correct one it doesn't affect anything else, you essentially want to move the chainline out to meet the now further out middle of the cassette if that's what you deem the most important match up, so 3mm outwards so your 110 would be 116 as it's 3mm each side. I'd be tempted to consider whether you want to go outwards unless needed though, if it's a kids bike you probably want to keep the Qfactor down as well as the crank length and they're likely not going to be smashing it around in the highest gears so an inboard chainline shouldn't lead to excess wear. I'd fit the drive side current BB and crank and check clearance with the chainstay and assuming the frame is symmetrical and if you've got 2.5mm for the shell difference (it would affect this as it's in the wrong shell) plus some room, go with the same length BB.

Awesome, much appreciated!
I’ll order a BB tool to get the external one out and take it from there.

Replacing the headset on my mates Spesh Langster circa 2012 model.

Is this a special crown race that I haven't come across before or is that a second one that someone has whacked over the top of the first?

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Not a fixing question, but this one is about e-bikes.

My dad wants one and we’ve been to look at a few. Aside from some having better finishing kit and groupsets than others, there seems to be a key difference between bikes. On some there seems to be a gearbox (the kit is in the bottom bracket) and on others the kit is rear hub-based.

What is the best option, all other things equal?

Here might be a better place to ask: https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/164941/?offset=600#comment16797776

I think you’re right. Thanks!

I've seen a similarly tall stack crown race on an old Tricross. You'll know when you pull it off?
If you didn't notice the bottom of the headtube sitting a bit high it probably needs to be that tall.

Is this a special crown race that I haven't come across before

I vote for this.

Don’t Speshs of that era have some really fucking wierd headset.

Look at the inside of the head tube and see if it matches?

It'll be the inner race of a cartridge bearing that has got seized onto the crownrace and the bearing has come apart. When you're really lucky the other half gets seized into the frame and you can spend ages trying to remove that too.