Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Interesting discovery. Somehow I didn't look at the chainstay inside properly.

As one can see by the two images, the place where the paint has been rubbed away, is exactly the side that was more constricted. So I am not imagining things.

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This must account for why the seller was using 28 or 32mm tyres on a bike that can supposedly take 40mm. Or perhaps the real accepted size is 35mm. Odd.

Tyre rub seems to be nearer the BB shell than the "dent" in the chainstay, are the wheels too big?

Thanks. That's useful tip about tying the knot in the middle, as opposed to the sides which is how I did it. I will redo the test.

I'm going to make a quick dash for the supermarket, before it closes. Will be back!

New bike time?

Can we see a photo of the dropouts?

Could anyone tell me if its normal to have obvious seams on a new carbon steerer? Never had a full carbon fork before, I’d assume these are just from the mouldings? Some of the seams near the steerer look particularly obvious though and there looks to be a bit of a step/size change between one of them.
Anything to worry about? Thanks!

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It is normal for a carbon steerer to have visible parting lines from the mold as you say. However, that fork is pretty poor quality. It looks like there is an alloy insert in the crown, so I suspect that the steerer has been bonded on after the main section of forks was molded. Nothing inherently wrong with that and could explain the rough surface.
It also looks slightly concave where the crown race should sit, so I can't see how the crown race will sit concentrically to the steerer.
Is it an aftermarket fork?

Thanks for the explanation, not aftermarket it came with the frameset, its Dolans full carbon road fork, I havent tried fitting the crown race so can't comment on how it would sit but that doesn’t sound great.

The mould lines are usually sanded smooth rather than sticking out like yours. That looks unfinished, and the marker pen covering a critical join is weird. It might be fine/normal, but it's not good.

Email the pics to the manufacturer and ask if they're happy with it.

This looks gnarly... Poor finish and I wouldn't ride it.

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Yeah I'd not be happy with that

Email the pics to the manufacturer and ask if they're happy with it.

I’d say blast it on social media. Even if they say it’s structurally sound, it’s not a convincing look, and if it fails you going 70km/h down a hill you probably wouldn’t be the same afterwards, where they’d just pay an insurance premium.

What the fuck is going on there? Whole thing is nasty! How's a crown race or bearing supposed to sit on that deformed steerer?

To close the loop on the scored Cinelli bars in CODA stem, pics of the bars. Not as bad as I remembered...

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Thanks guys, I will see what their response is for now. Glad I asked.

Definately a combination of over and under tightening, Deda still makes some decent 26.0 bars if you are looking for options. Possibly 3T too.

Thanks, yes have a pair of Deda Speciales on the way

Yeah, not too bad but given the age of them probably best changed out.

Mould lines normal, horzintol horror show aint pretty but might be fine. Without a scan it's not possible to know.
Area for the crown race looks uneven even by phone pic /eye. Would reject it based on that alone tbh. You'll have that weird rubs one side of the head tube + tight in one direction issue

Anyone have any luck with 10 speed Sram road shifters and an 11 speed Campy front derailleur?

Trying to get a Shimano FD7000 to work with 5700 10 speed shifters, I can’t get it shift anywhere close to well, but then again I am also absolutely terrible with front derailleur setup. Are they compatible? I’ve read that the cable pull ratio is slightly different?

But why? A new 5700 FD should be really cheap

Surprisingly it’s actually not, on most sites its cheaper to get a new FD7000 or 8000 than it is a 5700. But mostly cos I’m dumb and am rushing a bike build. Realised it’s a no go and I have once again learnt a good lesson