Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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  • You might get cheap 26" rims in the superstar sale

  • Been a long time since I last built a wheel... but yesterday I had a go again

  • Are you using that grease or is it just hangin' out?

  • I do use it for the spoke threads

  • Correct me if I’m wrong. I’ve written to sapim but didn’t get a reply. If using their MS washers, should I add 1mm to ERD, when calculating spoke lentgh?
    I’ve found a technical drawing on some of their distributors’ site.


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  • I think I would add 2mm, or have done in the past.

    What’s best is actually measuring the ERD while using the washers, if you can.

  • Yep, I’m gonna order the washers and nipples first, then remeasure and order the spokes afterwards. Was just trying to avoid shipping since everything is from elsewhere.
    Apropos, I’m glad I measured erd beforehand, since it’s 5mm off of the manufacturer’s number.

  • My spokes keep loosening and i keep re-tensioning them. Never had this issue in decades of riding. I didn't build the wheels. Can i drop some threadlock into the nipples without much effort? other solutions short of rebuilding the wheel with actual spoke prep?

  • You can get spoke freeze for that, but if they're up to the correct tension that shouldn't be necessary, have you got a tension guage?

  • No and never had a need for one.

    I'll run with your advice for now and just tension up the whole wheel a ~turn while in the stand.

  • No and never had a need for one.

    Now you have a need for one.

  • Threadlock/spoke freeze is a way to mask a problem, not a solution. Spokes come loose because either the tension is insufficient, or the rim is not stiff enough and wants more spokes or the hub flange doesn’t suit the rim… you should aim to solve the problem

  • or the hub flange doesn’t suit the rim

    Pray expand, just in case you mean something other than what I think you mean.

  • What I mean is that if the inter-flange distance is too short, then the hub is only suitable for deep rims… anything shorter than say 54-55 mm is not really suitable for shallow rims

  • Ah, I was going in the other direction, that a very large diameter (relative to the ERD) or widely spaced flange could exceed the permitted approach angle of the spoke to the rim, which would facilitate precession of the threads under cyclic loading due to asymmetric support under the spoke head. Your idea sounds good too 🙂

  • Threadlock/spoke freeze is a way to mask a problem, not a solution. Spokes come loose because either the tension is insufficient, or the rim is not stiff enough and wants more spokes or the hub flange doesn’t suit the rim… you should aim to solve the problem

    thanks. this is the wheelset:

    https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/suzue-wheelset-gravel-disc-tubeless-650b-11spd-5891?page=2&search=suzue#attr=4112

  • A 650 set should be bulletproof… the smaller the wheel the strongest it is. My guess is that the spokes are under tensioned

  • I’d agree. Or spokes weren’t bedded / stressed unwound or whatever thoroughly. And worked themselves loose in use.

  • All makes sense. Need to find my truing stand. I've moved so much past 5 years it could be in a number of places.

  • Quick question please but when measuring old spokes to rebuild a wheel(giant slr 30mm deep rim) do you include the “head” part of the spoke in the measurement.Thanks


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  • Thanks. Interestingly just found some information on the giant spares site and the rear wheel is built with 2 different size spokes just on the drive side.

    These T race spoke are working out pretty expensive. I’m assuming normal race spokes at a quarter of the price will work especially if you file down 1 side

  • I’m assuming normal race spokes at a quarter of the price will work especially if you file down 1 side

    If you mean making your own flathead (t-head) spokes out of normal straightpull spokes, you could use Damon Rinard´s method:

    Just squeeze a straight pull spoke in a smooth jawed vise, Just include the first ~20mm of spoke wire in the vise too, then it automatically stops. A shop vise can't possibly provide too much pressure

    I would not recommend filing spoke heads

  • Daemon

    If he was really a daemon, surely he'd execute the task for you rather than just telling you how to do it.

  • ha yes, ill fix it

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Wheelbuilding / Wheel Building / Wheel build help

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