Home DIY

Cheers, I'm going to leave the floor line as it is because, as you say that will likely change. I might fill along the underside of the carcasses as the sides of some of those protrude slightly below the bases (less than 1mm) so create some inconsistent shadow gaps if you look for them. The plinth is secured to the carcasses so less concerned about movement there. Hoping the sides are slightly easier as even though the walls are not perfectly plumb, they were recently plastered so should be straighter.

I'd say it's better than nothing for conserving heat in hot circuits, and trying to prevent freezing in extreme weather, but it's also delicious mouse food. Don't know anything about Armaflex vs. others

Any suggestions on how best to repair this? Particularly in keeping a good edge at the corner to meet the wood at the bottom?

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Google ‘stop bead’. With the right depth of that and a few passes with easifill you should be able to get it perfecto.

For deep stuff like that I'd be half tempted to get the majority of it filled with bonding plaster (but keep the bonding below the level of the finished surface) and then make tidy with a fine filler like easi fill.

Looking at the car keys for scale it doesn't look that big to me?

It's not far from the wooden board (which has just been replaced), only 20mm of bead missing.

Looking at Wickes it's only a couple of pounds to buy a new section to extend. Will check the scrap box first though.

Bit of a late reply but I work for Virgin so If you want to DM me some pictures I can point you in the right direction.

Armaflex is the best but its absolutely brain damage to work with. We just use the standard grey stuff most of the time.

Interesting thanks. Maybe after having the bathroom above redone also some wires may of come close to it.

Is there any good reason not to use stainless steel machine screws to hold my taps on? Previous ones were brass but having trouble finding anything that's not flat head or countersunk

I'm thinking something like corrosion between the brass valve collar and the screw welding them in place.

@si_mon628 thanks for the reply.

@konastab01 Thanks. why's the Armaflex so problematic? fiddly/awkward to work with?

When they seize and/or rust the brass hacksaws down quicker.

I'll not be able to get a hacksaw at it anyway as it's in the lever body, so hoping to avoid that scenario. The ones in there were pretty grotty but hadn't seized. Are stainless bolts just mild steel with a stainless plate?

Its very floppy and you have to wrap it with a tape to keep it up. Rubbish

Its very floppy and you have to wrap it with a tape to keep it up.

Story of my life...

Maybe put some anti-seize between them to add a degree of protection.

And make sure you use a stainless screwdriver. As they’ll get contaminated and rust anyway otherwise.

Not sure if srs.

Are you saying that some of the mild steel transfers on to the screw and rusts which in turn causes a stainless screw to rust which otherwise would have been fine?

Only the head of the screw but yes. Only really matters if it’ll be visible. Basically the tiny amount of non stainless left on the heads can and will rust making it look a bit shit. It's not going to cause any issues beyond aesthetics.

The advice appears to be:
“Leaving Exposed Surfaces Open to Contamination and Corrosion
The exposed part of the fastener, for example, the top part of a screw, can often be exposed to various contaminants that could cause corrosion. For instance, metal filings may settle on it, causing it to rust gradually. This also leads to internal damage and decay of the material. Try to keep the exposed parts covered at times when such contaminants might be present, and promptly clean any likely culprits away. Other tips to reduce contamination include:

Ensure the screw tips are made from Chrome Vanadium steel
Use hardened-chrome plated Allen keys
Use high-quality stainless steel or hardened-chrome hammers”

Cool, it's hidden inside the tap lever!

Tried to do some skim plastering in the bathroom. FFS what a mess. I'm now going with the apply it liberally and sand it down method as getting it smooth is impossible (not made easier with the walls being bowed).

Kudos to the plasterers who make it look easy.

I used that technique on a chimney breast a good number of years ago, jesus what a mess......... Sell kidney and employ plasterer :)

I think a plasterer would tell me to jog on anyways as it'd be hardly worth there time.
I asked a roofer who was working on the house next door all week to quote me to fit a vent tile for my new extractor (something I reckon would take an hour max) and he said it wasn't worth his time to even quote me.

I look forward to my roofing DIY..