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It's a Hope E4 caliper with the new stainless pistons replacing the old phenolic ones. Plenty of clearance on the caliper, Hope says it's compatible with 2.3 rotors. Pads are pretty new standard sintered ones. I had it working ok before, just the new pistons are so smooth that balancing them is proving tricky using the Hope "hold the pads back with a screwdriver" method
TooTallTim-
If its flat mount then make sure your mount is proper mega flat and faced properly, hopes' run a very close tolerance at best of time, and when they are new they will mostly rub the rotor for a minute or so after every brake application, this is normal with them and will either go away or cause you to go insane.
Was talking to the hope peeps on a stand recently and the road flat mount calipers they've had some issues with rub, new piston style (like a steel sleeve pressed inside the alloy caliper?) helps reduce that though not seen many new ones to really know.A bit of white paper on floor under bike is all I often use when bike in a workstand, helps be able to just look down through the caliper and set it on the fly. I tend to do it with wheel gently spinning and just kind of freehand it until it shuts up, then road test, then check it again, repeat until disc perfection is reached.
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I have a set of those skinny stainless alignment tools, not found many caliper situations that they work particularly well for though.
BrickMan
Unlikely but if caliper not designed for it, or pistons not all the way back due to...
hydrolock, too much fluid in master
cracked in half piston, the inside part of the piston which used to be one with the outside part, has broken company and is now jamming the whole thing, so you can't push them back (most white piston'd shimano's of the last 10 years).
New pistons wrong, rotor too thick or pad too thick or combination of all three