Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

I've lost one set of headphones in my wheel and almost lost another set during Highland Fling.

Please tell me the new charging cable doesn't cost £70-80?

I see, so you get fucked on the price but you don't have to buy 2 x junc and maybe some cables. If I want to run cables from the levers though, do they run to the FD only or both FD and RD? With no junc box, that's a long cable run.

So, if you fuck the RD cable for example and it's like 1.5m long and run through the whole bike, that becomes a not so easy replacement.

Sounds like fun!

The whole system takes 1-3 hours to charge. In the real world, are people really riding 1,500km+ without stopping for 1-3 hours?

Only £45, lol.

Shimano, I love your stuff but you're pricing is WANK.

There are three cable attachment points on my 12spd battery so I think they run to the battery and the battery acts a junction box?

It's more a case of forgetting to charge or "oh it's raining tonight, I won't be plugging my charger in"... "oh shit I'm empty" and then having to stand on the roadside waiting for the juice to flow. Whereas on 11s I could get shifting back as soon as I plugged in the charger - if my bike wasn't covered in feed bags I wouldn't even have to stop moving.

Ah, I forgot about the battery. That's not so bad.

I wonder how 3x those thinner cables compare in durability with the 1x big cable of the older kit?

I did it once in the Alps this year. I'd forgotten to charge before I set off and plugged in the bar-end junction box when i had a boring road section so I wouldn't forget later (it was hot as hell, all I wanted was a beer and a shower).

I specifically didn't get one of those bar end junctions on the Mason because I thought "that's gonna mean dangling a cable way over to the end of the bars while riding when I forget to charge"

Looks like I was sort-of right. The shifters do plug into the battery but I’ll need to install another junction box to connect the two shifters.

The junction box is £25, ffs.

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Lol

And how the fuck do I get the junction box into my headtube 🙈

I just wrap the cable around the bars to avoid the dangle as I'm bimbling along the road. I'm not racing or anything so it's not been an issue.

shove it inside the bars?

You could use one of those y-cables but they're probably just as expensive.
I wonder if the junc makes it so you can more easily fuck around with your cabling?
I dunno, if you're running Di2 hydro, you don't touch anything anyway unless you've crashed and then it's normally just a shifter or RD you're swapping out.

Does that mean if you were running 1x you could just have 2 cables going from shifter to battery and no need for junc box?

Most of the time, my junc B box was down near the BB, not up near the bars. Will depend on what you can do with your frame though

What's at all worrying about having the cable ripped to pieces by your rear wheel in the middle of nowhere during a moving emergency charge?

There's already one cable going to the RD, so you could just zip tie the charging cable to that and the seat stay and have the USB end tucked into your frame bag. Looks like it would be long enough, and a sufficient quantity of zip ties would remove any wheel entanglement issues.

Or build a custom frame with internal routing down the chainstay and a grommet near the dropout.

Will have a look at the Y-cable. To be honest, I only did a quick Google and that was the first diagram I came across (albeit on from the Shimano website).

No idea about 1x, sorry.

The frame is a new Mason Resolution. I’ll need to have a look at all the ports on it when I get a chance. I’m sure my LBS will have some input as well when I take a massive box of bits to them.

The only problem I can see with this is if the RD cable is internally routed which I imagine most are.

I have a Resolution. They're pretty good for Di2 cabling.

Do your cables so it is near the BB, then 2 long cables to the shifters.
Or shifter to shifter and then long ass cable to BB box, if this is still possible

i've dropped my bike against a wall which popped the top plastic bit which has the button on it from my r8070 shifter. etube still recognizes the shifter but the pce02 thingy gives error codes for both the buttons. the connections to the top button look ok, as does the cable to the connectors, so i assume it has tugged on the connections at the button. of course the lbs said they couldn't do anything, but has anyone here successfully repaired one of these? the shifter is otherwise fine and it seems like a waste to just toss it.