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Yeah the test ride was cool, easy to wheelie and super comfy. Less fun was realising that using the limited work toolkit (big Park shifter) to nip up the brake hose after cutting to size wasn't adequate... popped the hose clean out the lever :-| I live and learn, first time working on hydraulic brakes.
Getting the 3pc cranks lined up to clear the chainstays and play nicely with the chain device was also a faff, but took my time to space it out. There are plenty of trails and woods nearby so hoping to get some lunchtime rides in soon!
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Productive update after a period of sulking/psyching up to repair. I got the Kona rear mech hanger straightened and the paint blown over by Argos who painted it originally. In my haste to build it back up (theme of rushing building here), I cross threaded the rear mech, enough that the jockey wheels sat out of line. Noted the rear mech and noted the carbon cage was cracked (bought from ebay). I bought Ultegra 6800 replacement inner/outer from SJS and installed to the body of the mech while still on the bike to check it wasn't a bent cage. Was not, so mech off and Park Tool M10 tap and cutting oil ordered.
Undertook tapping the hanger with a friend watching and helping to ensure it was run straight - definitely do this as it is easy to run out of line. Frame clamped firm in a stand, plenty of time set aside. Cleaned out the threads with a toothpick then cracked on. As soon as the tap bit I backed off half a turn and blasted with cutting oil. Took my time with it and fortunately had a good outcome. Refitted the mech carefully and it was square - phew!
Cabled up and took it for a tentative first ride - no shifting snafus thankfully! Bike rides really nicely, fast/light/responsive. No idea what type of bike it is now however, bastardised tourer with princess paint and road wheelset.
Observations/musings:
- Paint job is very high quality but slightly terrifying to use the bike ad it chips easily. In reality, wish I had just buffed back the rusty bits and touched up to prevent it spreading so the bike could be more useable!
- Top tube graphic is a touch big, downtube a touch small. Bit of a gamble having my own made, but still really chuffed with how it looks.
- Genesis Equilibrium fork is a bit fat for the frame. I still have the P2, so maybe one day I'll get that sprayed to match. Also it's for an integrated headset so has a gross flat bit at the top. Was £50 new however, and significantly lighter.
- 7900 downtube shifters are snappy! Shifting at the back is instant, and smooth friction shifting at the front. Glad I kept the original novelty of this bike by stick with downtube shifters.
- Always always clean threads up to the nth degree before installing parts and chase with a tap if you can. Gives you peace of mind!
- BDHU, and probably swap the -17 stem for -6 to match the top tube.
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- Paint job is very high quality but slightly terrifying to use the bike ad it chips easily. In reality, wish I had just buffed back the rusty bits and touched up to prevent it spreading so the bike could be more useable!
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Some updates to add to this thread. Eventually settled on black Veloflex tubs for the Merckx Strada. Got a good few rides on it over summer, really nice to ride. Also got a spare of stainless Arundel cages too, King cages in the pic though. This one is done!
Also, better picture of the DMR built up, full early-2000s spec.
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Bought a cheap tatty Moser frame for £50 on ebay. Shipped the Mirage parts and Calima wheels from the Merckx onto it, and some nice Vittoria Corsas. Sprayed a Murex stem and Deda bars matt to match. Set the shifters too low. But had a nice hack bike. However, no mudguard or rack bosses made it a bit useless, definitely need guards even in the "dry" up in Aberdeen so found this cool Joe Waugh Fast Audax frameset. 531, classic looking thing and big colour! Plan is to ship the Moser parts onto this, along with some black Blumels mudguards and enjoy the lack of spray. I'm also Joe W so the headtube is relevant
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The DMR Sidekick I bought is cool, but the frame was raw... I lacquered it but inevitably it went rusty. I've stripped it and will get it powder coated, either bright silver/chrome if possible or white. Newest addition however is this, a Cannondale CAD3 Saeco. Bought it from Facebook Marketplace for a fair price, came with all the original parts other than the chainset, which is sadly a fat 105-series compact rather than a nice skinny double. The rear shifter needed a few toots of penetrating oil to shift nicely but got it going.
The 105 groupset is in nice condition aside from the rear mech which has had a scrape. Frame is really tidy, small ding in the TT and a little bubble on the headtube and a flaky cable stay by the rear mech but otherwise great.
Since buying it Monday I have been frustrated with what to do with it. Fitting a 5500 105 chainset (£30 or so) needs and Octalink BB which is near £50, so not sure there. Black 7000 105 would look smart but is a bit dull. SRAM Red 22 bits are available, American but spendy. So I think I'll clean it all up, get it working nicely then see how much it gets ridden before making any plans.
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Last bout of Cannondale spam. I forgot I'd come up with a chainset plan. Originally, the top end bikes came with CODA Magic chainsets, real early technology with proprietary BBs like Hollowtech and spiders to mount chainrings. They are rare as anything now, so how to get the look with readily availabile parts? Remembered Hulsroy had polished up a Rotor crank with black spider, so I'm going to do the same but buff off the ano on the spider to make a ROTA chainset
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Yeah they're cracking, define the pro/high end builds of the time. If I win the set I found on ebay half the work is done through heel scuff, but I'll get the Dremel out and take it steady. And have a root through the forum as quite a few others have done it without the noxious oven cleaner
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Well, bailed on the Rotor crank idea (for now) due to cost. Decided to go the MGOOF route due to the very cheap 105 deal from Chain Reaction (https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-105-r7000-11-speed-rim-brake-groupset/rp-prod214190). I wasn't prepared to spend £50 on an Octalink BB so decided to make the move.
This lead to the build needing more black parts to suit. I used some Tamiya modelling paint to change the downtube bosses, really looks nice against the red frame.
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The Kalloy seatpost and jet saddle resulted in a pretty high stack /short seatpost, and the Elita One I posted before didnt look right. In 1997 Cinelli were finishing kit sponsor, and I found a nice ally seatpost that fitted the bill.
Saddle wise, I took a gamble and still can't work out if I like it or not... yellow Flite. Head says black saddle and tape, yet part of me wants to go obnoxious. It's staying for now
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So, progress for now. Wheels will be swapped for Fulcrum 4s from the Kona I own, black with ally brake track and Vittoria Open Pave 25s. Deda Sepciale traditional drop bars are replacing the Eubios that were marked from slipping in the stem (will need to be sprayed gloss black from chrome first).
I want to swap out the Stronglight X94 and am hoping a strap wrench will do the biz removing it... designed for a proprietary spanner for no good reason. Been looking for a Chris King gripnut but either unavailable second hand or new ones going for as much as the whole bike cost. Going to be Tange I think.
Here's a poorly cropped photo that I took in a rush, but you get the idea.
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That yellow Flite was made for this bike. Looks perfect.
kjlem
Glws
Tijmen
Jaap
vpCogworks-
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About
Joe's Mixed Bag: Ridley / Kona Honky Tonk / Merckx Strada/Tecnos
Posted by
@Josē
After work beer/fettle on the DMR. Madera BMX cranks robbed from my BMX. Profile 39t chainring... getting ready to ride. After I've popped the back wheel in tight judging by my own picture!
And a nice optic added to the work bikeshed, emergencies only!
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