Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

And sound great as they tick tick tick on cooling

Can anyone recommend a non sram brake pad for sram rival hydros? Sram own pads are £20/ pair!
They have lasted and worked well though so maybe I should just ask santa

uberbike, lifeline, aliexpress .. the world is your oyster

I use Gorilla pads on mine. Have been absolutely fine

Great tip thanks, half the price!

If I want to swap a shifter, do I need to cut the pin out of the hose or is it just a new brake olive?

You can swap without cutting, unless it's internally routed. I'd normally dremel the olive out, or cut the whole thing if I have enough hose.

I found a nearly new shifter to replace the one that probably leaks so want to swap over. Sounds like if I can get the olive off I’m golden then?

The olive is generally crushed on, try replacing neither, then replace both if that doesn't work.

Was kind of hoping not to have to thread another full length internal hose (also integrated bars). I didn't enjoy it the first time. I guess I'll see if the current one leaks before going for the nuclear option.

By both I mean olive and barb, don't replace the whole hose, although it's kinda your fault for trying to pointlessly hide everything. It'll probably just plug and play anyway, it almost always does.

Or if you didn't leave a tiny bit of extra hose somewhere when doing a stupid full internal routing for this exact kind of problem then I think you just hate yourself.

I'll second this, did countless Euro to UK swaps with no failures.

New shifter arrives today, quite keen to actually ride this fucking thing so I'll give it a go. I am reminded, though, that I am shit at bleeding brakes

Shimano right? If the lever has fluid you might get away without having to, if you don't you might get away with whacking the bleed cup on and burping a few bubbles out with a bit of vigorous pumping. If you do need to bleed I'd just push some fluid up from the caliper through the lever into the the sightly filled bleed cup, close the caliper and burro burp away as above, hopefully all good.

burro burp

?

?
I dunno what a burro burp is either, something about donkeys I guess.

Farmer down the road has some donkeys (or mules, but I'm no expert); will let them have a try doing it. They can't do a worse job than me

For non burro burping in relation to brakes, stick the bleed cup on, add some fluid and squeeze the levers on and off repeatedly, can tap the hoses too and if it's struggling tie the levers closed for a while, it should burp air bubbles to the top.

Swapped shifter, no drama. Bleeding seems okay too.

But don't forget the burro burping to get out any bubbles after the swap

A quick burrito is always worthwhile.

Having issues with a Shimano XT front brake, new, not biting well.

Fitted new XT 4 pots, back is fine, front will not get tight.

Bled it a few times, no air bubble that I can find.
Before I just buy another one, any ideas?
Would replacing olives and hose inserts make any difference?
Hose is not kinked or damaged.
Cannot see any fluid leaking out.

It is infuriating.

Edit: just read up thread about caliper fed fluid, will try that over the weekend.

Genuine metal powerful version from sram, not sure who make them but the guide/code versions are top of the tree for power and longevity. Very well worth the money.
A lot of the discount online pads are junk, or at least aren't the, £5 a caliper raging deal theu appear to be, wear fast, noisey or just plain fall off the backing material.
Plenty of them are fine though, just got to find a supplier that has a reasonable qc level.
Ebc red has been my suggest pad of choice for a lot of folk with road disc setups, good wear, noise and power and haven't had any fall off in years

Push fluid both ways until it works, can also leave the cup on and tie the lever down for a few hours, make the lever higher than caliper, tap everything a few times, repeatedly squeeze lever before and after. My guess would be a bubble caught behind the pistons, so if that doesn't work, or maybe beforehand, remove the bleed block (put it back afterwards) and squeeze the lever a few times so the pistons come out (not too far) then push fluid one way or the other. Sometimes pulling on the syringe (don't use a bag, it's wasteful and you can't go both ways) at the caliper or lever with the lever pulled will pull out a stubborn bubble.