Home DIY

Milwaukee shockwave kit for about £15 is good, the holder is partly magnetic but also gets a physical lock, have not in 1 year of hard use had a bit come out. Then either buy more milwaukee shockwave PZ bits as needed, or dewalt extreme (I think is their top level bits?) are also excellent. Plenty of other companies make good stuff too, just be sure to get the black impact stuff not the generally silver non impacting bits.

Wera's non impacting bits are made from cheese, fine for normal use but not an impact, had a good few literally explode in my face*

*Using them on a powerful impact they are not rated for, not wera's fault.

I use multi solve on every bathroom silicon replacement job. It gets the last remnants of silicon off like nothing else.

Pocket sliding doors - are the premade ones all shit and should I go for an externally hung one? I don't think I've ever used one where the action was nice and they always felt a bit wobbly so my mind feels that putting all the mechanics on the outside where I can access it might be a good idea.

Something like this https://www.directdoors.com/products/ermetika-evokit-single-door-system-cassette

vs something like this https://www.fhbrundle.co.uk/products/41002__Sliding_Door_Kit_for_Solid_Door_Satin_Polish_304_Stainless_Steel

Managed to slot them in with the help of a friend. Just the gate to fit now.

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Looking good!

Neat :)

Takes me back to the 60's in Hull where we would spend all our time playing on the "tenny" aka tenfoot. A ten foot wide access :)

Thank you. Found this set from DeWalt - https://www.dewalt.co.uk/product/dt70745t-qz/extreme-flextorq-29-piece-screwdriving-set?tid=579361 that looks as good as I'm going to get for 50mm bits.

Will try the DeWalt bit holder too and if it's not great, head over to Milwaukee.

All you find in this one are presents left by the local cats and foxes.

Your view = my view.

I’ve never used a nice one, I’m sure they exist but didn’t want to risk getting it wrong buying untested and couldn’t be bothered to put in loads of effort trying to find ones to try.

I went face mounted.

I've repaired a few that seem ok but the little wheels have broken etc. They have been the type with heavy duty steel walls that replace the studs. Not sure I would want to retrofit one but if you're in the process of building a stud wall they can work.

The wheels usually have some adjustment. Mostly difficult to reach, needs some dismantling of architrave and you need to get the front runners right out of the frame to reach the back ones sometimes. If you adjust them properly they will be smooth. Having a solid fire door blank type of door seems to help them run smoothly too as you tend not to lift them when you pull them.

I'd say they're only really a good choice when you are not going to use them much.

Thanks @Airhead and @Hefty

it's for a bathroom door in a corridor so it'll be used quite a bit. I think the external hung gives more choice over a door too

Decorating a room which has 3 x aerial/satellite dish cables coming in from outside - non of which we use. What's the best way to make these disappear?

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What fixings are people using for plasterboard that has been dot & dabbed?

Are these metal sheathed ones any good?

[Edit]

Scratch that - it's apparently a timber framed building, so the plasterboard is screwed to timber studs.

I usually use the same metal hollow wall anchors and just drill into the breeze block behind to give it enough room to seat.

For lighter items, you could just use the easyfix self drill plasterboard screws. Just don’t try to fix them where there’s a dot as they’ll fail.

What are you fixing? I have used a version of those with a radiator and hung a friend's TV. Both still on the wall.

Cut them close to the wall and push them in?

It's for a small TV. Will be going with the Easyfix - I've happily used these on stud walls before.

Fischer fixings. The ones that turn 90° if there’s room or go straight into the blocwork behind. They then have a plastic support collar that sits in the plasterboard and slides up a zip tie to the correct length.
It’s a nifty system

https://youtu.be/3_Bkj7XSTJw

If you can’t screw into the stud I’d use toggles always.

I would just cut flush, poke the cable back a bit and fill and paint.. or remove from outside if you can pull them out.. fill the outside too

I think I've asked this before... There are a few cables slung around the front of the house. Some are obsolete - old TV satellite dish, TV aerial - but some might be current phone and internet. How do I figure out which are which?

Bosch Truvo owners - how reliable are they?

I’m trying to put some shelving up in an alcove and according to this thing I have a spaghetti junction of metal behind the wall with the occasional 10mm gap that might be safe to drill. Driving me slightly mad

Like these ones?

I used these to hang a big mirror, no issues so far

I've used GripIt fixings in plasterboard for all sorts - work well and various sizes and load ratings available. Make sure you have the right drill size though - https://www.screwfix.com/p/gripit-plasterboard-fixing-25-x-205mm-25-pack/630hp