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• #115052
Hah! Well I'll grab a sample from the one with the buggered element and have a look.
On the plus side, it's definitely working better than previously. It's only used when people are in the room (and the room has a fire extinguisher) so fingers crossed for no sudden surprises!
Do very much appreciate the input!
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• #115053
If it's ethylene glycol, you can use blue car antifreeze from any car spares shop, petrol station or Halfords. Don't use the red or green stuff, it's different.
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• #115054
Ah yes you're right, sorry!
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• #115055
Are you going to add a monologue about an m&s Christmas dinner?
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• #115056
It’ll probably definitely likely be diathermic oil. Try searching transformer oil.
I got some off a big plumbing firm who had it in barrels (but not in London and a while ago).
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• #115057
Is one likely to exist? Thought that was the studio version..?
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• #115058
New bike, picked up from the shop on Friday. Lower headset bearing doesn't sit very flush with the fork crown, there's a c.5mm gap.
Shop says this is within tolerance and will decrease once headset is tightened, i'm sceptical.
Last pic is of the same model on the showroom floor, with no gap between fork/frame. Is this normal?
Note; 2nd pic just shows the fork crown. 3rd pic shows headset pushed down as far as possible.
4 Attachments
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• #115059
Shop says this is within tolerance
Shop doesn't know what they're talking about. I'd worry in the first instance that they're trying to force a 36° bearing onto a 45° crown, which seems like a recipe for upcoming facial reconstruction surgery.
The lower bearing should be an easy slip fit all the way down until the chamfer inside the bearing seats on the crown chamfer. It's not supposed to touch the steerer shaft, both axial and radial registration are on the chamfer.
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• #115060
will decrease once headset is tightened
The only things which should move perceptibly when you preload the headset are the compression ring, upper bearing cover, stem, spacer stack and top cap. Everything below that should already be fully seated and the only movement will be imperceptible elastic compression of the balls and races.
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• #115061
What shop is telling you that bullshit?
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• #115062
I thought so. This is Condor, so not a small/inexperienced shop. There's no way the lower bearing is going to compress any further without some serious tool usage.
What's the solution in this case? A different lower bearing with a different angle?
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• #115063
Condor
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• #115064
What's the solution in this case?
They should give you the correct bearing.
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• #115065
Weird, out of interest is it the mechanics trying to fob you off or the people working on the shop floor?
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• #115066
Emailed the shop and they said they've shown the mechanic who's confirmed it's within tolerance. I'm going to email back now and see where it gets me.
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• #115067
Tolerance is on the crown race.
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• #115068
What's the solution in this case? A different lower bearing with a different angle?
If that's where the error lies, then yes. It needs checking with a goniometer. That might not be the issue, it could be that the fork crown is way out of tolerance. Having once been viciously attacked by whichever monkey tried to make it fit, it certainly needs close inspection for any damage.
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• #115069
Close.....
1 Attachment
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• #115070
I have no idea, I'm very stupid (see above post).
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• #115071
haha! from my research (reading youtube comments) the narration was from a film that was made by one of the folks in the band, but never finished.
looks like there are some apps that can remove vocals from tracks - and sure someone that can work with Logic or ProTools and the like might be able to work some magic
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• #115072
I've got on to my musically talented friends to see if they can help out! There's only so much effort I'm willing to go to for a shit joke though.
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• #115073
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• #115074
Hadn't listened to this for years
Hadn't ever heard it, there never seemed to be any further need for monkeys in popular music once this dropped:
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• #115075
I beg to differ.
https://youtu.be/4XxF4WPh3ME
The fact that it says "anti-freezing liquid" rather than oil points to the possibility of glycol. Check the existing fluid now that you have voided your warranty and abandoned hopes of avoiding fiery death. If it dissolves in water, it's probably glycol, if it separates it's oil. If glycol, it will probably also have anti-corrosion additives, but you can ignore those for the purposes of a partial top up. Small quantities of pure ethylene glycol can easily be bought from any online chemical supply. Put your affairs in order, check that your home insurance covers reckless experimental chemistry, and good luck.