Internal geared hubs?

+1.

Looks like the IGH version has a hanger should you/they decide to run derailleur in the future but the derailleur version has vertical dropouts so not as flexible.

Vertical drop out not really a problem with a chain tensioner like that Shimano Alfine one, I prefer it to make it easier to set up bike.

Another +1 for Nexus 8, they’re basically old school Alfines.

they’re basically old school Alfines.

I was going to say this.

Take your point on the tensioner, I'm just a bit of a purist and prefer a dropout or bb based tensioning method.

the rear derailleur looks very close to the ground...

Welcome to the 20" lifestyle. Bikes with fatter tires like the GSD or Edgerunner sometimes have issues where the derailleur cage can't clear the sidewall and you have to limited out the biggest cog lol

I have a Shimano 8 speed nexus hub. Came on a bike with drop bars and so shifting is via a bar end shifter. Thinking of changing to flat bars so would need to change to grip shift. Has anyone done this? I'm guessing I'll need to reinstall the cable and set up and adjust the shifting etc again. Never worked on a hub gear before so have no idea what I'm doing so just wondering how complicated it is.

There probably is a grip shifter but there's definitely rapid fire ones and they are definitely better.

There are versions of Shimano's 8 speed hubs which shift in both directions so you need to match the shifter to the hub somewhat if you want the numbers to match up.

If you post the part no from your hub we can post links to the correct type of shifter.

If you buy a new rapidfire I think itll come with a new cable and maybe the anchor bolt thing from the end. There are instructions on how far to set that from the end of the outer cable but in my experience it'll always need a bit of fettling to get it dialled in and line up the yellow marks.

If you're going to own an 8 speed hub you'll want to get familiar with aligning the yellow dots as if they get misaligned your hub internals won't last long.

Thanks. It's a Shimano SG-C6001 8-Speed hub. Good to know about the rapid fire shifter. Yes, I realise I've never even taken the rear wheel out yet. Definitely need to get more familiar with doing the basic mechanics on it.

Shimano SG-C6001

The tech docs say that it is low normal (ie, release all the cable tension and it'll return to the lowest gear) so you need a 500 series shifter - https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/gear-shifters/shimano-alfine-sls503-8-speed-rapidfire-shifter-right-hand-black/

If you are faced with a shifter and you don't know it's part number you need one where the 8 is at the lever side, the 1 at the barrel adjuster side.

You set the shifter to position 4 and match up the yellow marks at the top of the cassette joint. It's not a difficult process. Removing the cable from the cassete joint is slightly tricky, one of those things where you could do with an extra hand but not too bad. Pays to give it a wee clean before fiddling with the cable so the window for the yellow line is nice and clear.

I've found that any time you disconnect the cable or anything it'll take a wee bit for everything to seat itself back to where it wants to be so don't go fiddling the cable tension as soon as you reconnect it, run it through a few shifts to see if it settles.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qpHQdSvLQj8

Pretty good non-verbal video that shows you everything. They are adjusting by the yellow marks at the bottom of the cassete joint, there should also be a pair at the top with one behind a clear plastic window that would be more easily seen (though maybe harder to get on video) once the wheel was in the bike.

Great stuff, cheers. All very clear. Sometimes a non-verbal video is better.

That clear plastic window is all very well when the hub is new, but when it gets dirty enough on the inside, it's useless.

when it gets dirty enough on the inside, it's useless.

Then clean it! You can get to the inside by removing the cassette joint.

Finally got around to fitting flat bars and the alfine shifter. Shifting feels so much smoother than with the bar end shifter, plus I'm not getting the annoying gear slipping I was getting around a certain gear (was resigned to it being something wrong with the hub itself), and not having to move hand position to change gear is so much easier. Process was pretty easy in the end.

Anyone have experience with Rohloff? I've only got 7 gears available on a bike. I'm pretty sure it's something to do with the orientation of the transfer cog, but can't seem to get it right. I've also got the cable pulley box cabled up and would rather not waste another two cables to get it orientated correctly. Any tips?

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Was it in the right gear when you attached the speedbox? I don't have to replace the cables to unbolt mine at least , just comes of with the thumb screw

Sounds like the shifter was in first or last gear but the hub was positioned in the middle gear when the box went on.
Should just be a case of removing the click box, turning the bit the cable pulley sits on with a spanner to the end gear, make sure the shifter is set to the end gear, and put the click box back on.

It's another thing I love about the rohbox, it doesn't matter what gear you're in when you fit or remove the click box. 😁

Nah I've tried all of that. I only get 7 gears from either extreme, 14 or 1. I'll have another mess around tomorrow when I have more patience.

How many gears/clicks do you get turning the thing with a spanner with the click box removed?

Wait, what? If you start the shifter at 14, you can go down 7, and if you start the shifter at 1, you can go up 7…?

You tried starting the shifter at 7, right…??

You tried removing the click box and turning the hub part with a spanner to the end and still only get 7 clicks from the shifter starting at the extreme?

on the shifter or on the hub? Have you tried working the nub on the hub in both directions with a wrench?

Ah, same as above

yeah, with clickbox removed I only have 7 clicks, so obviously not that that's causing the problems.

and only 7 clicks available at the hub itself, so i'm assuming it must be something internal.