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thanks for the insightful reply!
i've now gone ahead with a custom non-RAL powder colour steve at aurum has access to. it's close enough to the IF original. good to know they can provide the codes though. emailing with them re the decals was already a lengthy process so didn't want to go there all over again.
steve offered to put a thin layer of (powder) clearcoat after the base colour to allow another layer of wet clearcoat after the decals. i'm a bit concerned now as you said this won't work too well :D. the decals are from sssink.com, the ink transfer type. i believe these require some kind of paint layer to hold.
launchpadboi
general_greyharbour
Ey up.
In terms of colour, you can ask I.F. for the code and they'll let you know - they've done it for me a few times. I think they use a PPG system and this isn't readily available in powder formats.
There are a few different powder references but the safest one is RAL. You can buy a book for less than £20 or get a decent idea by visiting https://www.ralcolorchart.com/ although this isn't a recommendation I'd make if you're picky. You'll get close but you won't get it exact when you ask powder to do the job of paint.
Powder is very rarely colour-matched... this is only really practical with wet paint but this process can be expensive.
You can use a digital colour picker from a photo and then convert this to a RAL code using http://www.rgb.to
Crudely speaking, powder is a dry coloured dust, electro-statically bonded to the metal and then baked to form a skin. The baking process will fry the sticker kit you were provided with.
You can powder, then stickers, then wet clear but the bond between clear and powder is very poor. You'll be better served by simply popping the stickers over the powder.
We can call them transfers or decals but whatever the specifics are, using stickers is always a cost cutting exercise which will give inferior bonds and present hurdles.... paint doesn't have these issues - but it does have it's own!
Hope that helps.