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Shapinsay?

Dry lining, what’s the accepted way of having feather edge boards that meet at an inside corner or but up against an existing wall?

i’ll be fitting insulated boards about 60mm and some will meet in a corner and some end against an internal wall, do you just tape and join while feathering the edge out and accept there will either be a flat cut up against flat cut or feather edge against flat cut board (or existing wall).
also because of the width of the board some will have a normal feather edge and it’s neighbor will be covering up 6cm so a narrower feather edge.

is there a right way of doing this?

We always started with a half board for inside corners, scribing it as tight as possible and caulking the corner. There are tools and trowels for doing corners but I’ve never used them. I imagine taping and filling the inside corner would definitely be more durable but also very tricky. Trying to fill the feather edge of a board in an inside corner would be a nightmare.
When you say they’ll finish at a wall, do you mean that you’re boarding the same wall, but just not all the way along? If so, I’d want my feather edge at that join, and do my best to chamfer the joining edge of the existing wall, to enable you to tape that join, and hopefully prevent cracking.
Unfortunately, it will just be hard to feather neatly.

You can run two tapered edge boards into a corner and tape and fill with a flexi v shaped trowel designed for the job. It’s quite hard but scribing neatly enough to caulk isn’t easy either.

“When you say they’ll finish at a wall, do you mean that you’re boarding the same wall, but just not all the way along?”

No, all the way along, one 6m wall with a big window in the middle and 2 bedrooms with 2 sides of exterior walls but just realised there are concrete pillars at the corners so each wall of insulated board will butt up against those, i think i’m going to end up with 2 boards in the middle then cut boards at each end, will try just butting them up and filling any tiny gaps or maybe the narrowest tape and patiently rub down the filler.

Not sure about the big wall, could start with a feather edge at each end and because the middle will be hidden by a radiator and just a tiny bit of wall above the window visible accept there might be a slight hump at the join.

Not sure about caulk? either way i see a fair bit of fine surface filler and rubbing down...
Window reveals will be tricky as the crittall frames are not very deep so may get away with the thinnest plaster board and just accept i’m going to have a high spot where the angle bead is

If possible I'd also cover the concrete columns in the insulated board. How fiddly this is depends on whether they currently protrude more or less than 6cm. If you don't you may end up with significant cold/thermal bridging and condensation issues.

it’s possible, though they are covered by brick on exterior so maybe the cavity extends round them as they project a fair bit into the room.
one of the walls (with big window) is solid brick faced with tiles on exterior, possibly even already insulated but no harm in adding even more.

I have seen a few of these flats internally insulated and never noticed any condensation or mould issues.

Is painting pre-finisher MDF kickboards going to be a pain? Current finish is matt, not gloss.

Not really, either use a de-glossing spray (wear a mask) or lightly sand before using a primer like Zinnser 123+ and 2 top coats of your choice.

Phew! Will dig out the zinnser, thanks!

Kitchen cabinets in new house have a few of these LED under lights attached with adhesive pads. One has lost its stickiness and fallen off, so wondering what the best method of reattaching would be. Needs to be heat resistant and secure, but able to be removed if a light were to need replacing.

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Command strips might be up to it. As long as it doesn’t get too hot.

The one that failed was above my coffee machine and I suspect it was the heat from that that caused it to fail. Looking at Command Strips FAQs it does say heat resistant up to 51 degrees though, so should be more than up to the task. Thanks

We have to pull the toaster out from under the cupboard when we use it to avoid melting the covers of the led lights.

I would try a mechanical solution like making or finding some brackets and screwing them into the base of the cupboard. There are lots of cable clips for large cables and the like that could be repurposed.

Good shout, cheers

Couple of short screws, washers and some flat elastic over each end was my first thought.

I’ve got a leaky bathroom tap. Is there anything I can try before I get a plumber round?

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Two holes either end, drilled up through the base of the cupboard. Thin wire or tywrap around the light/holes.

Look under the sink wooden bit, see if there is a stop / service valve or two (one hot one cold).

Turn them with a screwdriver if needed so the water stops coming out of the tap. Likely 1/4 turn. Then you can take off the tap hot and cold tails

Then carefully take everything to pieces you can find. IE take the tap off and look to see if a washer has perished, or hopefully something will just feel loose immediately and you can work out how to tighten it.

But if you take it to pieces methodically and clean it, you’ll quickly work out what is wrong, and either be able to fix it, or feel able to replace the whole tap if it is screwed.

YMMV IANAP

Thanks very much. Will give it a try.

Edit: Phone crashed —> repost

Porch progress - cedar fixed and white osmo applied. Next up uv protection oil, aluminium coping trim flashing the roof parapet and fixing rainwater goods. Rain tomorrow - excellent.

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Looks boss.

You should do the whole front.

We have a small patio to the side of our house with a drain for surface water to run off into and it’s a bit blocked, so heavy rain is causing some standing water as it can’t drain away quick enough. I had a dig about and it’s feels like there’s a lot of silt down there. The drain’s too small to get a shovel down to remove it.
Any diy options for sorting or best to get someone in?

how deep is it? would a rubber glove and sticking an arm down do much?