Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Anyone got any ideas on this? Axle is currently just too wide to fit between my dropouts, so I'm wondering if I can remove the end bit of this (the bit before the washer), which will allow it to fit. Or is it an integral part of the axle?

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Yeah I don't think it's meant to be there.
What sort of hub is it?

Dunno. It's a Maddux CX2.0 disc rear wheel.

Maybe it's been put on to protect the axle in transit?

Possibly. I'm going to try taking it off (once I get hold of some thin 17mm spanners) and see what happens.

Bin the chain. Do you have one extra gear at the bottom?

My new frame has an internal hose guide from the chainstay exit to the exit point near the headtube. I want to internally route the hose through the bars so how do I deal with the hose guide? Do I pull it out, cut it... something else?

Are your dropouts 135mm and that’s a 142mm TA axle?

Throught the bars and headset or just the bars? Struggling to think how you’ll get the hose internally into the bars if the frame isn’t already designed for it.

It's all from the same manufacturer and the frame and bars are designed for internal routing

Sram sx is cold garbage, nx rear mechs not much better.
I actually tried to warranty a 3 week old sx rear mech off a kona that had not a scratch on it, but was so wonky it wouldn't work 10th to 12th. Zyro stated "age related wear is not wareanty". Yup 3 weeks

This is entirely possible. I'll have to get the tape measure out.

If that's the case, can I just remove that nut and washer and hey presto, 135mm axle? Or is it straight to the classifieds?

Yeah, I had a similar problem on a few week old Roscoe, loose, floppy shite.

The outer lock is a locknut, so removing it would expose the axle it is threaded onto and there would be nothing to maintain the bearing preload.
Plus sometimes the locknut or other outermost nut has to be a specific diameter to fit into the recess in the dropout properly.
Your best bet is to contact the manufacturer and see if they do a conversion kit to 135, assuming that turns out to be the spacing.

Measure the OLD and take some pics of the other side and through the axle.

Thru axles are hollow though right, that's a qr axle with another nut on.

It doesn't look like a thru axle but there are a couple of less used standards, 10mm thru for use in QR frames as a kind of middle ground, although it doesn't really look like that or it could be a fully threaded axle that has loads sticking out the other end, but I'm pretty sure that would've been noticed. It needs more info and measurements.

Then where is the issue?

Because the guide from the rear brake is connected to an exit on the left side of the frame on the downtube (i.e. for conventional hose arrangement), rather than routed for internal routing via the head tube.

It feels like some sort of woven fabric so it's entirely possible I can just get some scissors in there but I'm loathe to do anything (too) stupid on a brand new frame.

It is actually hollow. What you can see inside it is the QR adapter I bought so it would fit my bike. What I didn't consider when I bought the wheel was the dropout width on my bike, which is 135mm, so it looks like I'm selling a rear disk wheel with a 142mm thru axle.

What is the frame? That seems very strange to have the frame compatible for routing via the headset, but close off the routing from the rear end.

No need. Looks like I've just bought a wheel with a thru axle that's too wide. Cheers anyway.

Winspace SLC 2.0. I've asked Winspace what to do; it might be I can give the head tube end a pull and it disconnects but who knows?

That seems to have a normal 1 1/8 top bearing so I'm not sure how you're planning to route the hose through the headset?