Anyone know anything about disc brakes?

100% better IMO!

Went from hyrd to hope rx and despite more rub and less clearance and a second bleed they are much better . The trp are great for the winter bike with the slower care in/on/out of corners.

Does anyone know of any drop-bar levers that work well with Sram level hydraulics?

I looked at the sram compatibility chart and all the sram road levers are yellow.

Level T/TL/TLM use 21mm pistons, same as AXS road calipers, so the AXS road levers will move the appropriate amount of fluid. The old Red22/Force22/Rival22 HRD mechanical levers were designed to use calipers with 18mm pistons, so they're probably not going to work, the area ratio suggests a 36% longer lever pull.

Upgrading from R8020 to R8070 di2 levers. Going to reuse my hoses. Can I just reconnect them or do I need to trim the hoses a bit to fit new barbs and olives?

Assuming they use the same nut and I think they do, just swap it over and you'll probably be reet, wouldn't hurt to have spares at hand in case it's not though.

I would replace the olives. If they slide off OK, you would get away with leaving the existing barbs in. If they don’t (I swapped a lever recently and it wouldn’t come off) then you only need to trim the hose by the length of the barb. Then use new barb and olive - feels like the right thing to do.

In my case, cutting the hoses meant re-securing the hoses, which meant re-doing the bar tape. That bit was much more time consuming than cutting the hose and fitting a new barb, which only takes moments.

If the olive slides off it wasn't fitted properly, they're meant to be crushed (not including the screw on SRAM ones.

That particular one moved, but only with difficulty, and only backwards off the barb, to allow me to take the absolute minimum off the end to see if I’d get away without retaping the bars.

Anyway, for all the time it takes, I’d replace barb and olive.

It's the correct way to do it, but often unnecessary.

Hope ones are reusable too! Pretty sure you already knew that.

Screw on SRAM ones are also single use (in theory). They should still crush a bit onto the hose. Annoyingly, the OEM SRAM barbs are pressed into the hose rather than threaded, so they are much harder to salvage and re-use than they could be.
I've never yet had an issue with any brand when re-tightening an already installed hose, and that's from spending a coulple of years working in a DH rental shop where we were swapping the brakes for UK/Euro customers very regularly.

I've never yet had an issue with any brand when re-tightening an already installed hose, and that's from spending a coulple of years working in a DH rental shop

That’s good to know.

what is the best way to disconnect disc brakes and prepare for sale? remove hoses from levers or calipers 1st? (obv remove pads)

and does anyone want a dura ace r9100 mechanical hydro groupset?

Levers mainly because it's higher and any oil drippage won't go straight into the pads

Stripped bleed screw on a R8070 shifter. What are my options?

Try and tap in a Torx 10?
Buy a dremel and cut a slot into it the head to use a screwdriver?

The screw is slightly received so cutting a slot into the head might be difficult.

Easy with a torx, the screws are so soft you won't even need to tap it just stick it in and unscrew

Oops double post

You have an ezyout? Press down and slowly twist it out.

Couldn’t get it out with a Torx. Was about to Amazon Prime a Dremel, but managed to just gouge a slot into the top with a small flathead screwdriver, and successfully got it out.

What an emotional journey.

Brake judder on the front disk- Is this caused by contaminant on the rotor?

(I thought I'd done an OK job bedding everything in at the start)

Could be a lot of things... Bedding, something loose, not quite centered caliper, flexy fork. Make sure everything is tight and centered, headset too, clean pad and rotor. If that doesn't work bleed and new pads may solve it.

Cheers.
Have worked through the bedding in, checked headset and caliper centring and bolts. Rotor looks slightly out of true. Will probably have a crack at that and then cleaning pads and rotors.

Also floating/2 piece rotors just do that sometimes

Yep, Hope floating rotors are notorious for this, and making funky burbling noises at low speed. They do dissipate heat noticeably quicker than solid 1-piece rotors tho, and are a tiny bit lighter if you care about that kind of thing.