Home DIY

Agree with stevo. I think they might need to be a bit stronger than you think. Once you've got the weight of the wood and plants, combined with the leverage and a bit of wind there will be more force on them.

If you search on eBay you'll be able to find a wider range of those - including beefier ones. I have a load that I still haven't got round to fixing our trellis up.

Cheers both. I'm not planning on putting any plants on them so it shouldn't be too heavy. There probably isn't much stability with those little brackets though

Worked out how to fill the gaps and make it blend into the wall more but not sure the ROI makes it worth it.
Added a top bit which makes a big difference imo, now it’s just more sanding and painting.

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@airhead gave me some useful advice on exactly this starting here:
https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/178667/?offset=36100#comment16507896

Some very basic DIY questions here as I am one week into home ownership. One of the windows in our office doesn't seal when closed, there is a gap of a few mm at the bottom of the window on the handle side. It looks as if the (forgive me for these technical terms) bracket (?!) for the locking pin (?!) is not installed in the right place. It's hard to see in the 2nd photo but when the handle is closed the locking pin doesn't reach into the bracket, its been installed too high up inside the window frame. Is this something I can just do myself by screwing the bracket into the right position?

First attempt at a bookcase for an odd sized alcove. Wood came from the British Wood Panelling company, recommended unthread by Airhead. They don’t say what wood the panels are made of but I am pretty sure it’s American Tulipwood, which rather undermines their Britishness.

Still needs to be sanded and finished, and put on a plinth. Obviously I will be using Osmo.

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Cheers. I remember that but was hoping I could get away with something a bit lighter with these.

The panels don't weigh much, about 5kg for 6ft of panel with most of it being empty space

Is this something I can just do myself by screwing the bracket into the right position?

Yes. But...
I do regularly see windows (and doors) where the position of the keeps doesn't give much engagement of the locking point.
However more often than not the window has dropped and getting it central within the frame would be the correct solution.

The top picture looks like there's a run-up wedge screwed into the frame and I expect the window is now binding against this, so it's not closing easily. Run-up wedges shouldn't actually do anything. They prevent the window being forced to to the point where the locking points clear the keeps, making breaking in more difficult.

With the window closed, pencil mark each corner and see how much overlap there is between the window and frame seal. If it hasn't dropped, or there's a reasonable overlap along the top edge, moving the keeps will sort it. Or at least help for now.

Reckon you could add some coving along the top of the room to balance out the wall/ceiling bumps

I'm still undecided about exactly what method I'm going to use but whatever it is will involve screwing something into a brick wall. I had intended just to use some fischer nylon plugs and screws but I've seen mention of concrete screws as well. What are the plusses/minuses of those compared to plugs?

Main question probably being which is least likely to come out?

Nice work

Looks amazing that!

Very soggy and slow porch progress - finished fixing bottom row of boards - templated water outlet - ripped first of the top boards to size - jigsawed using template and fixed. Also cut the hopper to fit the outlet and fixed. The hopper is silly big - I misread the measurements. Plan is to go into the Waterbutt below but wife is already twitchy about stagnant water sitting by the front door.

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Your biggest consideration here isnt weight, it’s high winds. Even with trellis a strong wind will put a lot of strain on the fixing point.

Fixing vertically down into the bricks I’d want to go at least through the first into the second course but fixing robustly this way you’re ultimately putting the load on the mortar, which may or may not be up to it.

This sort of set up spreads the load better. Some hilltop folk might go all in and run 4 inch posts into the ground, but if it’s short, light trellis and you don’t live somewhere windy then batten twice the height of the trellis with a couple of fixings.

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Yeah prob would but I’ve made the decision to not add anything superfluous or disingenuous and I don’t think it had coving originally.
It prob wouldn’t have had the fireplace either but I’m not messing about with taking that out however useful it would be.

Cheers. There's a few reasons I don't want to go with uprights down the wall. I want the trellis more towards the street side to stop someone climbing onto the top of the wall and I don't want big, solid uprights that someone can grab hold of to pull themselves up. Also, the wall has a course of bricks towards the top that stands proud so I'd need to shim out the uprights

The trellis I have is much less dense than that which is part of why I was wondering if I could get away with less.

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This our bathroom over various stages.. initially 60 years old.. Avocado to start, lived with that for a couple of years.. new vinyl floor, bath panel. but ripped all that out, insulated the floor, new suite, added a shower at the far end of the bath.. tiled.. then blue wallpaper.. obviously this needed changed in under 3 years, so recently just added the dark paper, new radiator and pedestal to the sink.. hopefully that will be in for a while..

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That's quality. You've done a great job.

Any way to round over the top, make it slippery/harder to climb over?
Is it the same people all the time?

smear with security paste

I'll probably stick some spikes on top too.

It's only been one person so far but one person climbing over the wall and trying the back door whilst we're sat in the living room is probably one too many.

Thank you!

Don't forget you can't make your wall more than 2m (or what ever it is) without PP. Decorative security spikes?

Are you allowed bits of broken bottle in concrete at the tops of walls nowadays. Was a popular security measure in my day.

Usually Newcastle Brown bottles broken up or Blue nun if you were at the posher end of town :)

The best allowable anti climb/deterrent is a blackberry bush. Thread the growing shoots through each gap to present a continuous thorny hedge