-
• #38377
ability to replace the bulb without having to pull the entire thing out of the ceiling to do so
Is this still a thing anymore with LED downlights?
-
• #38378
Do you actually need IP65? Either way Aurora were ones I was looking at.
-
• #38379
I think so, it's for bathroom use, most of the bathroom is in the danger zone etc.
-
• #38380
If it's a very small bathroom then you might need them to all be IP65. It's not required for all fittings in most 'normal' size bathrooms. You need to check on a case by case basis of course.
I fit integrated downlights if I'm changing them all in a room, especially bathrooms. Not had to replace an integrated unit yet but I've only been fitting them for roughly 5 years. A lot of fitters are buying a spare unit in case of early failure in one unit. They should be a good economical long lasting choice but who knows what replacement price will be compared to bulbs over time, especially considering inflation.
-
• #38381
If its in a wet zone (0 and 1 I think?) it needs to be earthed as well, esp if the bezel/ casing is metal. Loads of houses have those metal branch down lighter jobs in kitchen and aren't earthed when IIRC they should be.
-
• #38382
I fit integrated downlights if I'm changing them all in a room, especially bathrooms. Not had to replace an integrated unit yet but I've only been fitting them for roughly 5 years. A lot of fitters are buying a spare unit in case of early failure in one unit.
Yeah just going to bite the bullet and do this.
-
• #38383
Do you mean specifically integrated? or all zone 0/1 lighting. I've been caught out not being up to date on the now not so special locations before.
Also I guess this is a consideration because you are anticipating there being no earth available? I forgot about that as most of the lighting loops I come across have an earth.
Just had another look at the chart. Zone 0 is in the bath/shower tray so earthing makes sense. Zone 1 inside the shower compartment or right above the bath/sink, again sensible for that to be earthed especially if metal.
-
• #38384
Just check your ceiling height because IP44 is usually enough in most of the room. Above a bath if there's a shower head possibly more but double check.
-
• #38385
I've used the cosywool under our floor. I've seen the odd moth but can't say we're inundated and they might be in the curtains or sofa or something.
It was quite pleasant to work with - could cut it with a big pair of scissors.
It didn't expand to the thickness they claimed though, so maybe ask for a sample if you want to know what it's really like -
• #38386
Is the titan 235mm circular any good? Say compared to Macalister 165mm
Just need it for rough work -
• #38387
Aldi have a budget sheppach tracksaw in at the moment for anyone looking
-
• #38388
Think 0 is in an actual wet zone, inside of shower, or within x Cm of a basin etc. Zone 1 is adjacent and then Zone 2 is just rest of the bathroom, unless the whole floor is a wet room zone in which case I think you have to treat the entire room as a zone 0.
Earth all the things.
Mate bought a new house in 2018/19 and had to get some wiring seen to, used his own contractor and charged back to the house builder (because reasons, if they couldn't build it right in the first place, or deal with it in the numerous revisits then they weren't up to the task). Electrician found that basically none of the earths were continuous anywhere, lots of issues in the ring mains, shower cable 1 size undersized throughout its length, all the downstairs lighting was metal and not earthed at all, just wired as a regular light and big hole behind the consumer unit that went into the cavity wall without barrier, so a bit breezy inside their hallway!
1 Attachment
-
• #38389
Check the height of Zone 2. It's less than 8ft (244cm). The majority of rooms are 8ft+.
Given there are electricians serving time for the lethal mistakes made in new build installations it doesn't surprise me to hear about houses like that.
-
• #38390
Only had today to do this, and was interrupted by mini_com needing to nap. Also, floorboards so crooked I had to do most of it across the grain. Not perfect but a damn sight better. Now to Osmo the fucker.
3 Attachments
-
• #38391
Excellent work @stevo_com
-
• #38392
Taken an age to get here.. skirting still needs another undercoat, before brilliant white gloss finish. Then tidy up walls, shelves, thorough clean floor then osmo
1 Attachment
-
• #38393
From this..
1 Attachment
-
• #38394
Cheers, yours isn't too shabby either. Waiting for Everest to come out and fix the trim around the windows that the builders fucked. They're doing it under warranty so not worried if it takes a while.
Fittingly wardrobes will be here on 17th, annoyingly while we are away. But our lodger will be in and fittingly have said the driver will bring boxes up to the first floor if we ask nicely. So I'm going to leave the lodger a tip to give them.
Then it's massive rug and a superking sized bed. Ms_com wants a dressing table in the bay.
-
• #38395
Chronicle of the 20th Century! Man I loved that book as a kid.
ETA: floor etc looks tight.
-
• #38396
Cheers @Hefty, loads of gaps in the parquet.. gonna fill with sawdust and resin before Osmo.
The Vitsoe 606 shelving went up last week, flipping expensive. Chronicles not sure I can part with that, but some other books are destined for the charity shop in time and always on the look out for architectural detail and artist work.
-
• #38397
Worth swapping the plug if not already on list. Good work!
-
• #38398
Yep two antique bronze double sockets c/w USB ports to replace white plastic, to blend in with dark wall colour. Bought a while ago, sitting in the future projects pile
1 Attachment
-
• #38399
I need to put something on top of our garden wall to make it more difficult to climb over. Thinking of some shitty trellis that will make it a bit more awkward.
Any suggestions on the best way to fix it to the top of a brick wall (would prefer attached to top rather than side). Going to be pretty lightweight and not that high so hopefully fixings wouldn't need to be that strong or perfectly straight.
Thinking maybe just something like this?
https://www.wickes.co.uk/WICKES-38MM-ZINC-PLATED-ANGLE-BRACKET-PACK-20/p/164445 -
• #38400
I reckon those would bend in a breeze. I would think about using these and some 2"X2" as posts with trellis panels in between.
Hmm actually maybe I have to have integrated (i.e. non maintainable?) IP65 downlights.