You are reading a single comment by @Rodolfo and its replies.
Click here to read the full conversation.
-
Beware; the steel axle is also visible from the drive/outside, the dark gray ring as per image.
As tester pointed out this interface is only pressed, so get any caustic soda in there it'll dissolve the aluminium round the axle which you don't want.
I believe your method with the brush to be quite smart and will use it in conjunction with wetndry where I don't want the caustic soda to end up.
1 Attachment
-
Rodolfo
TotalShanner
ah I did not know that!
It's the method that I've used many times and I haven't completely dissolved a bike part yet...
With the race face cranks I linked to, it was easy since both arms can come away from the axle.
I actually have a set of Sram SX mtb cranks that I'm going to remove the anodising from, but these have the drive side arm attached to the axle like yours.
My plan is to leave the anodising on around the axle/crank interface since it wont be visible when installed on the bike.
Previously I used a large tupperware box that the crank fits in. I filled it with the caustic soda solution to a depth of about 10mm and sat the whole crank arm in it and used to brush to coat it then rinse and repeat.
I'm going to use the same method for the sram cranks but make sure that none of the solution contacts the axle/arm interface. I think if I'm careful it won't be a problem.
Once the cranks are polished and installed, it won't be visible.
fwiw before I ever tried to remove the anodising on anything of value, I practiced on old headset spacers just to get a feel for how quickly the reaction happens.
Good luck!
edit - if I get round to doing my own cranks over the weekend, I'll take some step by step photos