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Quick answer on the clearcoat... you'll need to scuff it first on this instance or the bond will be sub-optimal. Otherwise it'll be like painting on glass... it will be sticky but there'll be no mechanical bond and eventually they could delaminate.
Generally speaking, nitro-cellulose paints don't need to be abraded between coats but on a rattle can clear, deffo scuff.
You're right about product mixing.
Good practice says that you should be using products with suitable solvent relationships.Get yourself some of these if you don't already... TEST PANELS
You should do a couple of these every time you paint... make sure your layers are going to bond well and that your recipes are suitable. Keep notes on the back regarding temperature, number of coats etc. Useful for repairs and also good for your portfolio... more importantly, if you goof, you'll ruin a cheap panel and not someone's bike!One thing that the visual appearance of a finish can't tell you is the strength of the actual bonds... if the bike looks good, that's cool but if the paint flakes off after a summer then you'll have people asking you why.
Extensive testing on panels will help you figure out the combos which work for you.
As you come to paint a greater quantity of colour product you'll come to learn things like... metallics can cover better BUT the caveat is, they show prep marks and imperfections more significantly... on your final image, there are a couple of dings in the metal around the seat tube insertion area... some colours would hide this much better but a silver-like colour such as you've used is going to make a highlight of that!
Good luck with it all.
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general_greyharbour
Just realised I never replied back to this but thanks for your help.
This is the second frame I've done with the first not really being my cup of tea so won't be showing it! Few things is I thought I had done enough clear on the first coat but its seem like I haven't. The fork is perfect though. Couple more questions @general_greyharbour can I go over the clear again without sanding with wet and dry once its fully dried. Been over a week now since I done it.
I noticed that the Metallic Montana Golds sit on the frame way way better than the solid colours, which is good but limiting in terms of colours.
Lastly, I've been given a load circa 40 can of Cellulose spray paint, all new unused but from the research I have done the 2K lacquer won't sit well on top of this.. maybe 1K would work better but have you got any advice?