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Normally the switch is connected to an outlet behind the oven (or in an adjacent cupboard) and the oven is connected there.
What you have there is a standard terminal block which is a bit outdated these days. An improvement would be a Wago box with wago connectors, all rated for at least 30 amps.
This is not advice or a suggestion that you do it as someone experienced needs to check the highest current requirement for your new oven and check that all the cable between the oven and the consumer unit (fuse box) is capable of dealing with that current and also that the breaker will disconnect in the case of a fault.
Of course I have to say that because I've no idea what's going on in your Mums fuse box and the first bit of wire looks a bit small for some cookers but it could just be the photo.
Also some cookers (i.e. gas cookers) just need power for the clock and ignition in which case it's fine on a 13amp socket..
Airhead-
Yes cheers for that. It’s all a bit of a mess and reading elsewhere did suggest a wago based solution as opposed to the present one.
The consumer unit is one of the newer bits in the house so one would hope it’s ok, I think it went in at the time of the kitchen but my brother used his usual half-arsed contacts (last week a builder refurbing a toilet who doesn’t drive so leaves all the crap in the front garden) to do the re-fit so fuck knows is the more realistic answer!!
kilo24
No unfortunately direct to the switch would be too difficult for me, the kitchen is all finished and tiled by the switch and the switch was put in an awkward place to run a wire up to it (it’s my mother’s kitchen and I had no part in the refurb of it). I suspect a sparky would find it very difficult as well.