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  • Can you wire it in to the switch directly? I'm not a spark, but I'd like to reduce the number of connections like that ^ if possible.

  • No unfortunately direct to the switch would be too difficult for me, the kitchen is all finished and tiled by the switch and the switch was put in an awkward place to run a wire up to it (it’s my mother’s kitchen and I had no part in the refurb of it). I suspect a sparky would find it very difficult as well.

  • Normally the switch is connected to an outlet behind the oven (or in an adjacent cupboard) and the oven is connected there.

    What you have there is a standard terminal block which is a bit outdated these days. An improvement would be a Wago box with wago connectors, all rated for at least 30 amps.

    This is not advice or a suggestion that you do it as someone experienced needs to check the highest current requirement for your new oven and check that all the cable between the oven and the consumer unit (fuse box) is capable of dealing with that current and also that the breaker will disconnect in the case of a fault.

    Of course I have to say that because I've no idea what's going on in your Mums fuse box and the first bit of wire looks a bit small for some cookers but it could just be the photo.

    Also some cookers (i.e. gas cookers) just need power for the clock and ignition in which case it's fine on a 13amp socket..

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