Powder coating - Aurum / Vaz / Armourtex / Respray gallery

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I want to finally get my old Raleigh resprayed by Mario. I am designing custom decals and somebody suggested H Lloyd Cycles for making these.
Steve from H Lloyd recommended vinyl decals.
What are other people using? Should I get the decals first so Mario can add a layer of clear coat on top? Or do I just stick them on like regular stickers?

Defo get the decals first - they'll last better under the clear coat. I've used H Lloyd decals without issue.

🙌🏻 Cheers. Will do.

Can anybody point me in the direction of a respray place that can preserve decals while doing it?

Bought a bike frame in a colour I hate, but that doesn't come in another colour and they don't sell replacement decals.

Could get a replacement set made up custom I suppose, but wondered if this was an option first.

Ey up.

Apologies if you already got this sorted.

If you ant to preserve the original decal appearance, a good refinisher will take extensive photos, possibly trace over the frame, scan those tracings in and digitally re-create them in order to then make stencils so they can paint your graphics back on.

We do this occasionally at http://www.quinntessentialcustomsworkshop.com when necessary.

Feel free to drop us an email and we can have a chat about it.

😂 you guys are painting the bike I was asking about this for!

Brilliant!

I've rethought the idea of a respray and thinking about getting my genesis vagabond stripped down to raw metal and then coated with something to protect it. Any recommendations for somewhere that could do that, preferably in w London?

late reply but ive done a few for my customers

Where's a good place to get my ol' 90s steel mtb a new paint job? Somewhere SE London ideally and not to spendy. Just looking to get a single colour on there to hide away the rusty bits?

Winston in Hither Green is probably your best bet. Just had a frame powder coated & it was about £120 - varonha.co.uk

i'd have some questions regarding a blast-powdercoat-decal job for a 853 frame. the manufacturer has provided me with ink transfer type decals, which i believe are supposed to be laid under the clearcoat. can aurum sort this?

excuse my elementary knowledge, but how does one go about instructing the painter on the colour? i'd like to get as close as possible a match with one of the manufacturer's colours (see photo below). is there a way to determine the colour's code from this photo? if not, is the painter able to figure out a close enough match upon presenting the photo? or should i reach out to the manufacturer for a code? please enlighten me.

I was told that you can't have decals underneath a clear powder coat as the heat involved basically melts/ruins them. It might be possible to go powder coat > decals > wet lacquer but I'm not sure. I ended up just having a single powder coat and I've not yet applied the decals I got!

To match the colour, if you can find a RAL number that would help the coating place, but they can probably match it near enough or give you a colour chart to compare it to.

Not sure where to ask this. But i'm thinking of having a Reynolds 853 frame (Genesis day one) sandblasted then clear coated, going for the raw look similar to the clear coated raw Mash Work frames. Would those steps work or does sandblasting reduce the steel to silver/ grey?

How is that slightly oxidized raw look achieved? Thanks

Enjoy : https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/214590/#comment8965267

I know fuck all, but I remember the topic comes up on here now and then. I found this using search for 'raw' and 'clearcoat'. I think the discussion tends to circle around clearcoat not being effective, then use linseed oil, then someone pops up to say clearcoat is fine, etc.

I think the discussion tends to circle around clearcoat not being effective, then use linseed oil, then someone pops up to say clearcoat is fine, etc.

Haha yeah sounds like lfgss.

thanks for the link!

Steve I think phosphate dips (to slow corrosion) then does clear coat powder, worth investigating !

Ey up.

In terms of colour, you can ask I.F. for the code and they'll let you know - they've done it for me a few times. I think they use a PPG system and this isn't readily available in powder formats.

There are a few different powder references but the safest one is RAL. You can buy a book for less than £20 or get a decent idea by visiting https://www.ralcolorchart.com/ although this isn't a recommendation I'd make if you're picky. You'll get close but you won't get it exact when you ask powder to do the job of paint.

Powder is very rarely colour-matched... this is only really practical with wet paint but this process can be expensive.

You can use a digital colour picker from a photo and then convert this to a RAL code using http://www.rgb.to

Crudely speaking, powder is a dry coloured dust, electro-statically bonded to the metal and then baked to form a skin. The baking process will fry the sticker kit you were provided with.

You can powder, then stickers, then wet clear but the bond between clear and powder is very poor. You'll be better served by simply popping the stickers over the powder.

We can call them transfers or decals but whatever the specifics are, using stickers is always a cost cutting exercise which will give inferior bonds and present hurdles.... paint doesn't have these issues - but it does have it's own!

Hope that helps.

This image is of aluminium rather than steel.
It's a softer metal and the effect is more significant but this is what the surface of your blasted steel will look like. As you said, dull grey, and pitted.

The raw look you are after ideally needs to see clearcoat applied directly over the steel from the off.

If you want to get this effect, you can do a bit of the graft yourself... quality paint stripper and abrasives to avoid the pitting. You can put a nice 'key' into it with red or grey scotchbrite. Then you can bring it to me and I'll use a direct adhesion clearcoat. There will be some anti properties to the clear so rusting will be slowed, then, as you chip and ding and scuff the frame, those fractals and deltas of oxidation will bloom.

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thanks for the insightful reply!

i've now gone ahead with a custom non-RAL powder colour steve at aurum has access to. it's close enough to the IF original. good to know they can provide the codes though. emailing with them re the decals was already a lengthy process so didn't want to go there all over again.

steve offered to put a thin layer of (powder) clearcoat after the base colour to allow another layer of wet clearcoat after the decals. i'm a bit concerned now as you said this won't work too well :D. the decals are from sssink.com, the ink transfer type. i believe these require some kind of paint layer to hold.

There are few people more knowledgeable than Steve so if he can do it, it can be done!

Hey guys, bee reading this thread a bit and aurum seems to be a great fit for my frame, I've heard of a dropout point ine ast london does it still exist and happens? Cheers!

I dropped mine at Clever Mike

yes, clever mike in hornsey deals with aurum pickups.