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Tension or compression brace would be of little difference for a dinky cabinet door. The extra fixings into a triangulated brace will be fine either way.
Compression is only better if it's done well, with the ends of the brace being in full contact and fixed to the rails. Any gap or slippage of the joint negates it being any stronger as it ends up using the nails fixing the boards to the brace to resist sagging, just like a tension brace.
https://tp69.blog/2018/12/31/the-best-way-to-brace-a-wooden-door-or-gate/
user69121-
Again... Logical...
But still learn something new every day
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That’s a really handy link thank you. I’m going to be building more things in time I imagine so having these details will be really handy. Gave the bedroom a tidy and a paint touch up today and got the skirtings and loft hatch done in there. Door hung again after being oiled and now all that room needs is lights and sockets!
We got loads more skirting and door frames painted and all the internal doors have been oiled and sanded and are back hung again. I cleaned up the tiles behind the stove that I’d done yesterday too and it’s looking a lot cleaner behind there now.
The kitchen is causing some problems.. the hob sat too low for the oven and needs some space between the two for air flow so things don’t overheat. Our joiner is brilliant though and dropped the shelf in the unit and put a brace up at the top to create the spacing we’re needing. He’s also having to brace the big drawer unit beside it as that’s where the joint in the quartz worktop is sitting and he wants things more solid underneath.
ChainBreaker
Creek_Tebsin
Thank you, I realised that after we’d done it.. Think once I put the brace on we ended up flipping the door upside down because of the grain.. we glued in the tongue and groove pieces so it shouldn’t sag, but I think it’ll annoy me and I’ll probably just swap it round anyway..