Home DIY

this scraper is worthwhile:-

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Purdy-14A900800-Multi-Tool/dp/B07357SQRR/ref=asc_df_B07357SQRR/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=272031820973&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2843027297385768062&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9044965&hvtargid=pla-419073122568&psc=1&th=1&psc=1

T Handle scrapers are great for wallpaper :-

https://www.dm-tools.co.uk/product.php/section//sn/XMS21SCRAPE

Tajima ones are really nice :-

https://www.dm-tools.co.uk/product.php/section//sn/TAJSCRL600

I’ve got a couple of small gaps between the silicone around the bath and the tiles - not sure if perhaps I didn’t have enough water in the bath when I did it, or just didn’t squeeze enough goo out (oo-er).

Any magic product to patch the gaps? More silicone on top?

Or is it a lesson-learning moment and rip it out and start again type scenario?

1 Attachment

Cheers, looks a bit expensive for one window. Removing the glass is a possible but the bigger the scope of the job the more chance I'm just going to get someone to do it.

There is a big stone cill underneath so that may be a possibility. Will have to have a closer look.

Quick update on the structural floorboard. Turns out it's been notched and the fake joists are propped on nothing, half a brick and nothing (from left to right).

2 Attachments

A length of 2x4 with a block screwed to one end to capture the bottom edge of the sash and a friend to use it as a long lever can probably take a useful amount of the weight.

Even using it regularly, the sashmate was an expensive purchase. It helps a lot, but you still have to lift the sash inside which is the awkward part.
At 1m sq, I'd probably take the glass out if the glazing beads seem easy to pop free.

If you have any smaller windows with less than perfect hinges, practice on one of them before attempting this one.

A temporary solution to get it closed unless this is a daily use window, would be to pull the top corner in as you close the window. Really needs a suction cup, or push against it from outside. once fully closed, they usually stay there until next opening.

If you use the bath as a shower too I'd redo it and have a larger bead anyway. If it's just a bath and you have some matching mastic just use some masking tape and get a little bit in there to seal it.

My mate got a big wheeled tool chest from them and it was surprisingly good.

Got a stud wall to do. Have done the framing and ordered the plaster board (delivery tomorrow) but do I go for tape and fill the joins or skim the whole lot? Never plastered before.

I'm leaning toward skim, means buying yet more tools but seems like a useful skill to learn so long as I can get a reasonable result... Is that an unrealistic expectation?

Tape.

This was the advice to me from my BIL who started as a plasterer.

Skimming well is a proper skill. Takes ages to learn to do well. Taping and filling is not, it’s easy, so long as you’ve ordered tapered plasterboard. You’ve ordered tapered plasterboard right?

Not unreasonable. If you had a couple of spare boards you could always practice on either side of those to get the hang of it. Might end up with a bit of sanding and filling to be done, depends how much time you have I guess.

Taping and filling is not, it’s easy,

Having spent 10 years doing it on and off, I’d like to politely disagree. Getting a decent finish without blemishes, high or low points, and without having to do multiple fills and loads of sanding, definitely takes a bit of doing IME.

And skimming onto a plasterboard isn’t half as bad as a rough wall. That being said, you’re still probably right about taping and filling being easier.

Yeah, sorry, it not easy easy, it takes me 3 passes to get it right, but I can get it right. I can get nowhere near with the pink stuff.

I was just being sensitive (and ignoring the context of vs skimming).

All things being equal, tape and fill is definitely the wise choice for a DIYer (and very doable). Pals of mine have had decent results plastering just by watching lots of YouTube, following all the steps, and taking their time. Rather them than me tho.

I've got a wallpaper stripper I bought to strip walls in my flat and now want to get rid of (in the sincere hope I never ever have to strip wallpaper again). One of these: https://www.toolstation.com/wagner-steamforce-2000w-wallpaper-stripper/. Put it on FB marketplace for £25 but would take £20 - from E9 or Barbican, or can cycle it elsewhere if not too far. Any interest?

Now that looks fun!

Unless you count 200 miles as too far I'll have to pass. Would you recommend that stripper?

Haha, yeah 200miles might be a bit much. I'd recommend the stripper yeah - only comparison I had was this one against an old one a friend leant me and this was much better. My walls were many, many layers thick of old paper, and I found lightly scoring first with a Stanley knife, then wiping with a wet sponge,leaving to soak for a few mins, then steaming got it off in large strips.

Combi boiler question: turn hot tap on, boiler fires up and the temp displays quickly rockets up above 99 but cold water from taps.

Turned it on/off again, turned all taps on round the house. Anything else to check before calling someone?

Edit: central heating works, so diverter misbehaving?

it takes me 3 passes to get it right

I think I took about 6 or 7. I should get a prize or something.

All of life’s prizes await those who persist until they succeed.

In this case your prize is a nice flat surface and the joy of knowing you made it so.

You can’t buy that shit.

.

a nice flat surface

Until I turned the lights on :(

Thanks for the skim vs tape replies. Tape it is! Am I looking at a standard filler I can pick up from Toolstation etc or do I need something special?

Just to counter the consensus a little: I've lived with both and much prefer skimmed (DIY or paying for it). The plasterers I've used quote the same time for either, but marginally more in materials for a full skim.

Main reasons are: strength of a skimmed surface (no rips/marks/dents over time), marginal increase in sound/fire protection and a 'perfect' finish.

Some people say you can always see when boards have been taped, but I think this is possibly only when it's done badly, or a poor board primer is used pre-paint.