Which Groupset?

I'll do it for £875.

I don't come here much. But I run axs derailleur with Shimano chain and cassette no issue (12spd).

Think I need shorter legs.

Just get 165, it's the best size.

thanks! but just pulled the trigger on a 12sp ultegra group in classifieds

For road Shimano makes sense. Those sram front derailleurs have their own gravity field!

I know some folk were asking about the wireless AXS blips, their ability to work without blip box, and the 3D printed bar end holders for them. I'm still waiting on an AXS battery, which is now turning into a bit of a saga, so haven't tested, but got the part 3D printed and it seems to fit great.

The company who printed (outside of the UK) were really helpful and it only cost £20 for all four pieces. Something to note - when I went in to collect, I got chatting to the manager about what the holders would be used for, and he stated that he wished I'd told him in advance, as they would have printed in a different material. Turns out they used PLA, which is not very durable outdoors. He offered to re-print FOC in ABS material, as long as the PLA version fitted ok (it does). I think for £20, this offers a nice solution for TT bars and saves the cost of a blip box (as long as you have some kind of master controller somewhere to link the blips initially). The back of the holders isn't so elegant, I'm seeing what I can do about getting some kind of custom rubber bungs created.

SPAM: Mini 6800 gear kit if anyone is interested:

https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/381127/#comment16744264

Interesting. Just visited this thread because say I wanted to stick 11spd on my old-as-fuck Tarmac... it currently has DA7800 10spd shit on it (well, the RD is XT so I can run a 36T cassette so it's only shifters and FD). I want to run lower gears, ie. MTB cassette 11-42 say, which requires a longer, shadow cage type setup and/or maybe a goatlink.

Actually, now I'm writing this, could I stick a roadlink/goatlink on the XT RD and does a 10spd 11-42T cassette exist?

I guess it is possible

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vvDvZViRFN8&t=207s

I have a Microshift cassette on my mtb and can recommend, quite cheap too. Don't know if weight is important to you?
https://www.microshift.com/models/cs-h103a-11-42t/

Ah, I think I saw them before. Maybe when I was looking for an 11-42 11spd cassette that was all steel. That 10spd 11-42 might be an option. I'm looking at installing a GRX RD I have onto my gravel bike, then moving its Ultegra RD to my partner's bike and then taking her Wolftooth off and sticking it on the Tarmac to get lower :)

Does anyone know if the GRX NW chainrings are only compatible with GRX cranks or could the ring be used on other 4X110 Shimano cranks?

Reasonably sure GRX is only for GRX.

It's Shimano, they're always gonna fuck off the compatibility with the old stuff at every opportunity

I’m selling a wide range 10spd cassette in the classifieds. Can confirm that it can work with just normal long cage mech and a lot of b-screw, mine was shadow but didn’t have clutch

I bought the bits but haven't yet fitted the 42T to my 10S Tarmac.

Cheers, looks to be the case

I think I'm getting more confused after looking at my parts.

Bike seems to have this derailleur = (11 speed with x-actuation) https://www.sram.com/en/service/models/rd-nx-1-a1

and these shifters = (11 speed with x-actuation)
https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/sl-gx-11-a1

Why is shifting not smooth? Seems they are both same actuation and for mountain bikes. 11-42T cassette

B tension? index? limit screws?

Why is shifting not smooth?

Define smooth.

Are the cassette, chain, or cables worn out?

It's weird, I'm relaying second hand what the bike shop said to my gf - that the derailleur was wrong for the shifters.

See images though (sorry for poor angle)

2 Attachments

The derailleur doesn't use the smallest cog and crunches between changes a lot

I once managed to mix an "exact actuation" shifter with an "x-actuation" RD, and had a problem that sounds like this. I think it might even have been GX shifter and NX RD. IIRC an older generation of GX stuff looked identical but had different pull. Could be that (as the shop says)?

Sounds like the b-tension screw doesn't have enough on it, usually you get the top jockey wheel as close as possible without touching to the big cassette sprocket in the smallest gear at the front but the big cassette 1x stuff works a bit differently. Some of them have a mark on the rear of the mech you can look through the wheel and line up with the cassette, but generally you can get it close to how you would on a older mech then dial the B screw in and further away from the cassette until it shifts cleanly across the cassette, make sure your chain is the correct length first.

If they both say "exact actuation" exactly on them they're compatible, if one says something that is not exactly the same as the other they are not.