Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

Pfft, magnets.

Is not that complicated, just laborious. Sometimes it's hard to make people understand why you're charging 3 hours labour for a handlebar change. Don't drill the bars, they're absurdly light and it will void warranty.
Where's the hole placement on the bars? How is this routed inside the frame?

Anyone experienced a rear mech doing this (see attachment)? Failed on a ride yesterday by suddenly shifting to highest gear. Managed to resurrect it a couple of times by unplugging and replugging but then it just refused to work at all.
It's not crash mode, it's not a flat battery. Front mech shifting fine. Can't see anything obviously mechanically wrong. No obvious stress or damage on ride yesterday.

1 Attachment

• WhatsApp Video 2022-10-17 at 09.55.22.mp4

Yeah, I had one do that once - the same clicking but no movement. Think the motor has just failed

guessing it was a write-off?

There's a plastic gear train inside the motor housing that has likely worn or snapped. Probably junk I'm afraid.

Yeah, as mentioned below I think something internal broke. I saved a few of the removable parts as spares and eventually binned it ( after it sat in my parts cupboard for a couple of years...)

Thanks - that sort of thing was my guess. Will maybe dismantle for the fun of it.
Annoying as can only justify replacing it with ultegra which doesn't look nearly as nice.

https://bettershifting.com/

Not sure if this has been posted or not but some interesting things and more on his Instagram.

love this guy. from what i understand he is just a hobbyist but gets invited to all the bike shows/shimano exhibitions etc.

Thanks! :)

Yeah, I'm just one guy - and cycling isn't my day job :).

I started the site because I tried to build a Di2 bike and couldn't easily find Shimano information/tutorials. Besides the dealer manuals there was only Carlton Bale's page (https://carltonbale.com/shimano-di2-everything-you-need-to-know/).
It's a great resource, but it's just one page.

So yeah... I started to decipher Shimano's manuals and translate them into a bit more human readable formats... and things took off from there.
I work on the site every evening. Sometimes more than others, but the goal is to make it that 1% better every day.

It took me a while to figure this out, but my goal with the site/instagram isn't to make money, and I'm not trying to turn that into my main source of income. That allows me to focus on actually helping people and I don't have to post things like "These five things Shimano doesn't want you to know!!1?1". Sure, there are some affiliate links on the site, but they're not all over the place . No ads either, and there never will be :).

Shimano (EU) and PRO do help out - I have some great contacts and they gave me access to their TEC platform. In the past, Shimano has sent me parts (RD-R8050/DA cassette/FC-R9100-P, rotors, etc.) and let me take home a Wilier Filante SLR with 12sp DA and their C50 wheels (for ~5-6 weeks).

I'm trying to get my hands on a 105 Di2 bike, because that'd be fun. Also interested in their e-MTB "free shift" and "auto shift", but when I visited Shimano EU last month they only had three e-MTB demo bikes - and all were out at dealers/conferences/etc.

At the moment I'm taking apart a (broken) RD-R8150, working on the Di2 'cheat sheet', and will install 12sp Ultegra on my bike next month.

Hi! Ask me anything :)
(and Hi Swedeee! I've seen you before, but don't remember where:))

Thanks - that sort of thing was my guess. Will maybe dismantle for the fun of it.
Annoying as can only justify replacing it with ultegra which doesn't look nearly as nice.

There's a guy in the UK that repairs front derailleurs and rear derailleurs. He can probably tell you whether or not it can be fixed.

His name is Pawel Niewiadomy (https://www.instagram.com/paweln83). I've had more luck contacting him on facebook though. He also posts in the 'Shimano Di2 Forum' group on facebook (not my group, but I am a moderator): https://www.facebook.com/groups/shimanodi2

Welcome to LFGSS, and thanks for your site and all the work you've put into it!

Also thanks to @scultura for linking

You absolute hero. Heard you on a podcast recently. Epic.

Thank you! Will get in touch.

hi and welcome! doing god's work... we have indeed interacted on instagram :--)

Hi @BetterShifting.Terry quick question, there is currently a debate for my Look 695 that I have a Darimo di2 handlebars which has the di2 holes for the top shifter but does not have the one at the bottom of the handlebars for the bar end junction box.

I saw a video online to say you can by-pass this completely and have it running more neatly instead without the junction box hole.

Would you recommend this? (From 5mins 15)

https://youtu.be/kFMgEuUwq08

Hah, I've also posted in the other thread just now, but yeah... personally I also avoid the JC130 Y-splitter.
I don't use an extra SM-JC41 up front though..

My 11-speed bike was set up like this:

And yes, you lose one port and some flexibility, but it looks nice :)

I’ve been getting some serious drenchings lately and it’s reminded me of a slight concern I have re my seatpost Di2 battery. It’s a gravel bike, with a rear-facing slot in the seat tube. No mudguards (I’d probably have to get smaller tyres than the current 40s if I wanted to fit them) so the top of the seat tube and seatpost are unprotected.

I’m sure there must be at least some water seeping in down the inside of the seat tube. Is this a concern with a battery in the post and the wiring down there? It’s not a Di2 specific post, so the battery is just jammed in there with the flanged Shimano rubber battery holder.

I’ve seen things like the Fizik seat post ring, but I’m not convinced that it would stop much as it would just rest on top of the seat post collar. I’ve read of people putting silicon sealant in the seat tube slot, which I think might have some effect.

Is the battery and wiring designed to handle a bit of water ingress or, if not, what’s the best thing to do?

Its the same connection that you have at your RD, and I imagine they must get occasionally submerged in water with the more adventurous riders. I guess those connections would be rated for at least IP-spalshy-proofy (cant be bothered to look up the exact codes).

Cleaning out the connection wont hurt though, if it resolved your issue then you've got your answer, and you can consider silicon...etc

PS: If anyone got a spare DN-110 battery they want to sell, let me know!

It’s more about preventing future issues. It’s been years since I had a bike without guards and I’d forgotten just how much water and crap gets thrown up against the top of the seat tube esp during off-road stuff.

Good point about the other junctions at the FD and RD.

I’ll take the post out and see if there’s any sign of water getting in there for a start.

Seatposts are a tight fit, and if you've greased it too, I very much doubt any water is getting in there at all

From Shimano

Di2 is a closed system, completely waterproof and sealed from the elements, its operation unaffected by the weather.

HERE

ALWAYS grease your seat post though.

Thanks PhilDAS and Grumpy_Git.

I changed my mind about taking the seatpost out (there’s anti-seize on there rather than grease, which will serve the same purpose I hope, and it’s a well fitting post) and decided to look at the bottom end instead by taking off the access hatch under the BB.
There is an unused front mech cable drilling going into the BB shell so I wanted to see what was happening with that.

I can see a small amount of dried mud, dust really, which I guess has entered through the cable exit All dry as a bone though. The drain hole is adequate so that even if some water does come in from the top it won’t be there long.

Shall remove the seat-post from my list of small things to worry about when trying to avoid worrying about important stuff, and add the question “should I block that cable drilling”.

Another welcome from me. Thanks for the excellent website (and response to my email query a few months ago). It’s particularly good for someone entirely new to Di2 - “How do I switch this on?” etc.
:-)

The site must involve a phenomenal amount of time and work.