Home DIY

Appreciate you're probably joking but is there a way to do this that looks good? Something like a sink with expanded [ceramic] surround.

That’ll osmo back to brand new.

https://youtu.be/iRua8c3CEk0

Keep the tin, you’ll be doing it again in a year or two.

Sand it back, oil it, then hard wax.

It will be useless for food prep, and you'll need to reapply every once in a while.

Liberon Superior Danish Oil (SDO1L) and Liberon Professional Hard Wax Oil (LIBPHWOCO1L).

Then take the sink off, burn the worktop, and install something sensible & appropriate.

I've fixed this, twice, on two different worktops. Yours' doesn't look too bad but the installation of the tap and sink looks questionable.

First you need to scrape away the existing sticky finish, as it will gum up a sander. A scraper, or a card scraper (look them up) are ideal for this.

Then you need to sand back to remove any damaged or very badly stained wood. You'll need a random orbit sander for large areas, and a multitool or palm sander for the hard to reach bits. Sanding sponges are also really handy for doing it by hand.

You then need to work up to a fine grit sand, then treat the wood with a food safe oil / wax based finish. These need periodic reapplication.

It's a bastard of a job, but the result can be awesome.

3 Attachments

You can get food safe epoxy too, but I don’t imagine it’ll be easy

If you have the space I'd recommend a single bowl sink with integrated drain boards on either side. I'm biased because we inherited something like that in the form of porcelain over steel, but I've never seen anything that appeals more for functionality and long term durability - ours is from the 30s and aside from a couple of chips it's in great shape.

This.

We have a wood drainer area, but it has a £50 draining rack on it. 5 or 6 years down the line and zero stains (does get looked after though). Check about 100 pages ago, went into detail along with a few other folk on how to get wood tops from new to epic, and rescue them from that kind of a state. IMO (but maybe not correct!) wood 'finish' is very important, just sanding to 240 grit is nowhere near enough, you need to keep going, 600-800-1000/1200 sort of grade, fine wire wool it, dedust it etc. Then work up through the oils. Months from now when its all proper soaked through and hardened, go at it again at the high end 1000+ and some fine wire wool, clean with meths then osmo seal it with whichever variety you like.

Mines seen lots of use for sure, gets cooked on every day for up to 4 people, 4 bike people too so thats a lot of food, only thing that ever stained it was some kind of super alkaline cleaner for the oven, but sanded it out.

Wouldn't bother with varnish, as soon as you get a cut into it, surface blows.

We use 'tongue' oil, or at least one brands version of it, great colour on unstained oak, however its borderline useless as a sealant, without the osmo it would look rank or stain within 3-6 months.

The issue with expoxy is water will tend to get trapped in the wood directly surrounding it and eventually it'll rot out even worse. I know because this is currently happening on my bastard wooden worktop around the sink.

I'm going to ignore it until I can afford to replace with Corian or something cheaper.

Best is to just not have wood where water is, granite slab behind the sink with taps through, granite or something not wooden for drainer is the optimum. Even seen stainless inserts let into the wood very effectively.

Pleasing

1 Attachment

Yeah it's a stupid idea, not my choice, it came with the house and was installed badly and already abused. Will get rid at the first opportunity.

I should prob buy a multi tool.

Very jelly.
I’ve been doing next steps on my built in. Coming together despite being sent the wrong screws for the hinges…

1 Attachment

You probably mean Tung oil.

I’m fixing up some old ercol dining chairs. Trying to find a better way of sanding the spindles. Is there a way of fitting a lathe style chuck to a hand drill so I can spin then to sand? Or is there another obvious way I’m missing?

Mini project which I'm quite chuffed with...

We had two white coathook racks of the cheapest standard as a stand in until we decorated (which ended up about a decade but that's a different story)

They wouldn't match the new room at all but it felt a bit throwaway to, well, throw them away.

One tin of spray paint, a bit of leftover paint from the walls and a lot of sanding later..

Recently painted (water based) an old wooden piece of furniture and want to add an extra layer of protection over the top to protect the paint finish as we'll be putting plant pots etc on top.

Any reccomendations for what to use? I've seen a few suggestions like a polycrylic finish but wanted the benefit of forum wisdom if possible...

Cover with glass tabletop?

That's a good shout. I've done it in quite a few places including window cills.

If you’re after glass speak to Drennans in Paisley. They are great and very reasonable

Cheers both - good shout that I didn't consider before!

When I ordered the kitchen I got the wrong size open cupboard by accident, and also an unnecessarily small unit for the extractor, given we went with induction.

Still need to figure out what/how we box in the extractor pipe (and also make the hole in the wall 125mm from 100mm if possible - the bricks seem a little sketchy, but perhaps all the more reason to get stuck in and shore it up.

Finally got the replacements up this afternoon without major issues, and had a good excuse to buy a twisty turny ratchet screwdriver set to boot.

Planing on tiling the box/cover to hide the boiler pipes on the opposite side of the kitchen this evening if all goes to plan.

2 Attachments

Yay leaky roof

1 Attachment

A working kitchen. Non of this 40k show stuff. Nice.

Hay toaster though. You can’t take the LFGSS out of the kitchen.