The Look family - Look KG196, KG381 & 695 Aerolight

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  • what is the story behind the chainring?

  • Stunning frameset and even better chainring

  • Chainring is sooooo cool. Frames not bad either :)

  • damn that chainring is cool... what are the wheels you're planning?

  • 🤣🤣

  • So a little update with the bike as with like my L96 this has not been an easy journey with this bike/frameset. (and probably why this design didn't take off with the rest of the market - aka function over form).
    So a little update with the bike as with like my L96 this has not been an easy journey with this bike/frameset. (and probably why this design didn't take off with the rest of the market - aka function over form).

    The bike is currently at the workshop and even they are struggling to build this properly due to the fact it is so unique to build and set up.

    The bike has been in the shop for 2 months now and we have 3 issues that has occurred from this building:

    1) Wheelset
    2) Di2 housing into the framset
    3) Di2 junction box method through the handlebars

    @mattyc @edscoble the wheelset I have gone for this 35mm lightbicycle wheelset with carbon-ti hubs. The idea is to make this a reasonable lightweight bike.

    https://www.lightbicycle.com/U-shape-35mm-depth-Hand-built-700C-carbon-25mm-wide-clincher-road-bicycle-wheels-for-tubeless-compatible.html

    1) wheelset width issue - so this one was an easy fix but the initially problem they found was the wide of the wheelset seems like it didn't fit the frameset due to the fact the integrated brakes seem to take only 23mm wide rims.

    However, we have resolved this by removing the washers that housed the brake pads to allow in theory up to 28mm wide rim. I was surprised this was taken so long to resolve this issue but I'm sure there was a reason why the washer were there for a reason.

    2) Di2 frame housing - this was an oversight from my side as I thought it was a with most modern frameset when they state it is Di2 compactable it is already integrated within the frame design. Little did I know you needed additional or the spare parts to change from mechanical to electrical.

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403195799413?hash=item5de057a775:g:iiMAAOSwfNRhU1qp&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoBJR3FwWDTiHVhprsQHTL9q9tGQA1oYgNBE%2FnEtFFTNO57rTi6O625dQRIIjZtMyQiLYWw9MH5xHOJAeNHwBj7x%2Bq2ZEHDXAVn8c1inNB79i0mziLTzQ0R9xfpxqMMhuXwFfCyWkmwfSdtmRbdbTBYrtlREJ18%2B2fOzWysStbUm0O5iOSz4VW9jTu6w8JghjmSxxj8%2BIGOdgcj4epn7wi0U%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7Lwrs_8YA

    3) Di2 junction box - so this was brought up within the look and di2 thread but for clarity I'll try to explain it the best was I can here.

    To keep the building as lightweight as possible I decided to use Darimo di2 handlebars over the Look ADH 1.2. For both handlebars I can see they have the two holes near the bottom part of the hoods to allow the feed of the die housing.

    However, both bars do no have a hole at the bar end where traditionally where the di2 bar end junction box can feed the housing through the handlebars from internal to external.

    This is where the bike is currently - the solution the mechanic want is to have the standard junction box on the underside of the stem to resolve this matter. But from what I've researched there is an alternative option where you can use the handlebar box without the hole at the bottom of the handlebar.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kFMgEuUwq08&t=459s

    Annoyingly this is where w are, hopefully the mechanic see my way and finally complete this build.

  • Not to rant too much as I do appreciate the mechanics effort as this is not an easy job to do considering how difficult look makes it to install the mechanical or electrical cables.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4MKNCKpfbLI

  • Is that chainring staying though? Dibs if not!

    Re brakes and clearance - is the washer the concave one that allows the shoes to be adjusted to hit the rim square? I’d have thought you’ve better cutting the pads down?

  • It's really not difficult to do the di2 without a bar end hole as long as there's a hole near the shifter. Tell em to get on with it

  • i'd second that. it doesn't seem like there is anything that difficult with the assembling, but everything to do with the store being a bit difficult.

    my experience with a bike store fitting internal di2 on a caad 12 frame, was listening to them offering me external routing with zip ties.

    internal di2 means a certain amount of pain, that's all.

  • Lol, will use it for HHSB ride. Got the look chainring for match-matchy zed 2 crankset.

    The video shows it is viable @11:15 I believe.

  • Swissstop Flash Evo pads are 1.5mm thinner, should work with the washers in place.

  • I have, now is the waiting game.

    The worry for them and probably miscommunicated from my side is that they believe need to drill in the hole for the carbon housing which for the darimo bars is very worrying.

  • This was my thought as well, I don't envy the labour to do all this.

    Hopefully once this is done once properly it won't need to touched for a while.

  • Did think this would be an option, but it seems removing the washer works for now so let's see moving forward when I need to replace the brake pads if this is needed.

  • I'd just make sure that they explicitly know that they are not to drill anything.
    I wouldn't want to go and pick up the bike to find new holes that I didn't want drilled

  • I really cant see why this job is not straightforward if you have access to the right di2 wire lengths, and assuming the cable can be routed through the entirety of the handlebar between hoods. Might be some flimsy leftover stuff in there, but you can almost certainly guide it through the bar.

  • Will drop them a line now :)

  • This was my thought, but the mechanics used to work with pro scene so I can gather he does things by the books and sometimes it's hard for them to think outside the box.

  • Should be a lot simpler than in the video since most of the Di2 is connected in the handlebar instead and only one wire is going into the frame, last TT bike repair I got had same brakes, 2 junctions behind the stem and 8 cables going inside the cockpit, now that was an ordeal.

  • Yeah... like others have said, if possible I'd also route the wires through the handlebar (internally). I have never used holes near the drops :).
    (Easton EC70 Aero, Pro Vibe Aero)

    On my own 11-speed bike I didn't use the Y-splitter either. You lose some flexibility and one e-tube port... but it looks better than having that y-splitter/JC200/WU111 dangle in front of the head tube (on my bike).

    That long wire is drawn above the handlebar, but it's all internal:

  • This is how I have my set-up running, but I have the bluetooth bit as a connector between the bars and rear components. I have some primavera bars and feed up the tube from the bar end.

    The right side was a bit messier inside(carbon bags?) so I ended up using the easier access left side to feed the cables from the power plug connector

  • Yeah, that makes sense - you can then easily disconnect the front of the bike :)

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The Look family - Look KG196, KG381 & 695 Aerolight

Posted by Avatar for HoKe @HoKe

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