Mudguards

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  • Naff picture, but metal bracket goes under the fork if that makes sense. I'm sure there is no reason that it can't go forward though.


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  • just different designs.. those are kinesis mudguards in your photo, mine are pdw. but yes i could hide the tab under the fork by bolting to the back but do prefer a but more coverage at the front

    edit: although having said that - i only have it like that as the bluemels werent long enough.. might be better to move it backwards and get even more toe coverage

  • I've got the PDWs too, did the fork mount come that way? Mines even hidden under the mudguard.


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  • Of course the proper way to do it is to use a daruma bolt. Any eye bolt of the right dimension will do.

  • yes it came that way. they are the same on both our guards.... it can be mounted to the front or the back of the fork crown. yours is mounted on the back, mine on the front

  • Think what king sax is saying is your L bracket is on top of the guard facing forward, his goes through a slot in the guard and is facing backwards.

  • oh i see ! yeah must be slightly different versions or something

  • Not that it really matters, just aesthetically more pleasing if the bracket was hidden under the fork crown.
    I'd leave as is, like you say, gives plenty of coverage front and rear, just get a longer flap.

  • double post. sorry

  • if this bike would be a cocktail it would be this

  • i like those and i dont even have a soho house membership

  • Anyone hacked away at metel fenders to fit at seatstay bridge? Got some VO guards that are too wide there. What's the best approach and tools to do this cleanly?

  • Denting / forming is better than hacking if possible

  • Will that not affect the roundness of the guards? I think I'd have to bang away quite a bit which may get close to the tyres. I'll need to have a closer look at this on my lunch break.
    Any pointers on tips to denting this? I'm used to just riding into things to dent metal, so need a more precise approach

  • That's really neat. Wonder if it rattles though? Edit, maybe slid a bit of inner tube between frame and guard?

    In the past I used a Dremel to 'sand' away the mudguard. Don't think I'd do that again though.

  • That's looks interesting. Wonder if that would work at the seatstay bridge where my problems are

  • You could also lay some protective 3m tape between guard and frame (inner tube would also work but might squeak / get holes pretty quick)

  • My Velo Cult rando was done this way by forming the mudguard around the chainstay. The work was done by the framebuilder, Mark Nobilette not me, but it works wonderfully.

    On my Isen I did some squeezing with a pair of plumbers grips to slightly narrow the pdw fenders to fit in the seatstays. I also put some helitape inside on the stays


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  • That looks really smart. Just about making that jig...

  • Jig mad, mudguard hammered and I think it'll work. But, one problem solved, another issue crops up. The fork crown daruma bolt is too short, leaving too much space between mudguard and tyre. Anyway around this, either buying a longer daruma bolt (can't seem to find one) or some sort of extender. Would like to avoid using an l-braket as that will require more bodging of the mudguard.

  • What are you using underneath to fix to the daruma? A regular nut?

    Could use a recessed brake nut to give it a bit extra length? Might have to enlarge the hole in the mudguard a bit

  • Yes, just a regular (I'm guessing) M6 nut. Recessed brake nut, don't know if I've got one laying about but makes sense. Enlarging hole shouldn't be a problem. I only need an additional 8-10mm length to give me the 10mm tyre clearance to mudguard

    EDIT: If using the recessed brake nut, I presume from bottom to top, it's nut, mudguard, daruma bolt, fork crown bolt to hold it up. Wouldn't this lead to the mudguard rattling around?

  • Could put a spacer in between to fill the gap? A cork with a hole cut out the centre? Dunno

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Mudguards

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