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• #25102
Until the frame broke, my BMC Alpenchallenge was pretty much the perfect commuter bike. Was a total bugger to get hold of in the first place though.
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• #25103
Alpenchallenge where THE commuter bike in Switzerland when they first came out.
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• #25104
Doing some skill training and small trial stuff on this tank is a good reminder to go to the gym more often...
Also really have to get used to this on/off feeling of the 4 pot Deore brakes
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• #25105
The head angle on that at rest looks mad, what is it?!
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• #25106
It's 64.5
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• #25107
I would love to have a go on the Grim Donut
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• #25108
Snap, possibly literally
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• #25109
I gave it a dose. It seemed to help a bit but it's still sticky at the end of the rise.
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• #25110
Upped the pressure yet?
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• #25111
Not touched it, other than cleaning and lubing the shiny shaft.
I was thinking I might just take it to the shop and have the forks first service done at the same time. I don't have the carpet for oily work.
I was chatting to another SoG rider and he said forks are heaps better after their first service anyway. Not that I'd be able to tell.
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• #25112
Actually I just tried it again and it did pop all the way up, just slightly delayed getting over the last few CMs or so.
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• #25113
Needs more pressure
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• #25114
I'm not riding it for a bit so will mark the saddle and try pulling it apart and adding more air. If this is a regular thing though I'm going to be grumpy.
I don't like things that don't "just work"
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• #25115
It's a bit luck of the draw I think, my 170mm transfer post has the frustrating "bump with arse to get it to return to the top fully" thing going on, but my 200mm transfer post never needs that.
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• #25116
I have topped up mine 3 times in 2 years. It's a five minute job. The clamp is easy to deal with.
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• #25117
Yeah, but when you have a bunch of bikes all needing 5min jobs...
The saddle has a cut-out so it might be quicker than I thought to just undo one bolt, preserve the saddle angle and hit the pressure thingie. Nothing I touch is ever straight forward though.
I back off the seatclamp a bit and it's better so I guess the clamp is deforming the post slightly and that's causing the extra friction. I don't know how loose I can get away with running the post clamp though.
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• #25118
I know this is a dumb question but I don’t understand Mtb geometry. On my xc hardtail I fitted a 20mm longer fork which is loads nicer to ride, but on steep or technical climbs it feels like the front end wants to lift/ doesn’t have enough weight on it. That means I have to stand and risk spinning the back wheel.
Would lowering the bars help (whilst realising this would have other impacts?)
Shorter or longer stem?
Or just suck it up and accept the trade offI’m going to be doing an everesting type off road challenge so will be climbing a lot so it’s worth a bit of effort to get right!
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• #25120
You could lower the bars or move them forward to move your weight forward but if you're not already sticking your torso much closer to the bars you might not need to.
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• #25121
doesn’t have enough weight on it
Partly that, partly that you've now slackened the seat angle. Try lowering the bars a little at a time, but also moving the saddle forward too
Also what hippo says. You might just need time to adapt
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• #25122
slam that stem for climbing
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• #25123
I know this is a dumb question but I don’t understand Mtb geometry. On my xc hardtail I fitted a 20mm longer fork which is loads nicer to ride, but on steep or technical climbs it feels like the front end wants to lift/ doesn’t have enough weight on it. That means I have to stand and risk spinning the back wheel.
Would lowering the bars help (whilst realising this would have other impacts?)
Shorter or longer stem?
Or just suck it up and accept the trade offI’m going to be doing an everesting type off road challenge so will be climbing a lot so it’s worth a bit of effort to get right!
You need to steepen the seat angle to compensate - what you describe is the issue I had with my Scalpel, wheelie going uphill then spin the rear tyre when you moved your weight forward.
Try moving the saddle all the way forward on it's rails, and if you have adjustable length chain stays (my Pace hardtail does) move them to the longest position possible.
Maybe fit a longer stem to go with the saddle moving forward.
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• #25124
but also moving the saddle forward too
This. The more you get over the front of the bike the less it'll wander.
Technique wise, try to not pull up on the bars but instead hinge more, shimmy forward on the saddle and keep pressure downwards when it gets steep. That'll help your front wheel stay planted
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• #25125
I have a 140mm -20 degree stem somewhere which I might be willing to part with...
Get a pompino ... Do they still do them?