How do I bathroom / kitchen / extension? etc.

Bulk discount of RAL7045 Elephant foreskin grey?

List time...

1. Kurai
   
2. Chrisbmx116
   
   
   
   

Ouch, we painted most of our internal walls white mostly because we live in an old house with lots of exposed wood/brick which can make things very dark. We also add lots of colour through pictures/paintings, rugs and furniture.

It was by far the easiest thing to decide on so maybe that's the cowardice in me.

90% British standard white walls in our old place, it’s all about what you put in there and the floors for me.

might as well whack a big LLL vinyl up if you're painting for personality ;)

Generally a fan of P&S stuff but that one misses for me even though it isn’t a million miles from what we’re trying to achieve.
Feels more like an art gallery than a house.

Is that to me?

Yeah, non black example.

From the outside I would have pegged it as Thames-side industrial renovation circa 2003, hah

Anyone used the Forbo click Marmoleum tiles? I’m wondering what leeway I have with a slightly uneven surface I’d like to lay it on (with a DPM of some sort underneath). Seems the lino sheet is very thin and will show any little bumps through.

Depends what you mean by slightly uneven and where the heaviest foot fall will be. Sheet is usually better than tiles for uneven surfaces but the cork backing on the click tiles will probably help

I did a bad job of screeding an uneven floor and there is a ridge between batches @ 1mm deep and a few marks here and there. Thought the extra depth/rigidity of the tiles would help smooth it all out, the last time I had lino on a subfloor you could see every last dimple and grain through it after a few weeks.

Cheers

I had a wall taken down to get our kitchen done. And the floors either side were at different heights.

I had to use self slumping compound (levelling my arse) and it was a poor job but as good as I could manage with +/-3mm and the Evocore LVT tiles laid flat for me.

I just bought some from brootzo in Greece, if you’re looking for brass/chrome/nautical stuff. Quality TBC when it eventually arrives, v funny website though - 100 year guarantee, 200% customer service etc

Has anyone laid underfloor electric under engineered wood? I have a fully insulated shed/garden room with fancy wood flooring - 20m2 room, I’d like to put 16m2 electric underfloor into it. I can get 2m2 rolls cheap, but I’m not sure I can plug 8 of them into a single thermostat - does anyone have any experience/know why I couldn’t? Thank you

Oh. Maybe that was the wrong thread. Someone advise and I’ll move it to DIY if that’s right

The joints are the weak point on the click tiles. If you’ve got a high point that happens to align with a joint the joint will fail and you’ll get a bit of vertical flex where the two tiles aren’t securely connected anymore.

They are pretty forgiving but you can’t be sure until it’s all down and walked on.

I had an Amtico click joint fail in the middle of a room. Managed to get some clear silicone in and stick it back together but you can still see it’s not as sharp a join as the others. That was the only failure in 310sqm of flooring on sand and cement, no self levelling. I was too cheap to level the whole thing and it annoys me every day.

Ok, cool, ta, its max 1.5mm difference.

Hmmm, I’m not sure the cost/time/effort/extra floor height of sticking some ply under it offsets the risk of it being fine anyway.

Went to open my new integrated fridge, cupboard opens one way, fridge door opens the other way.

Kitchen suppliers fault for not specifying the same opening? Or builder putting door on the wrong way?

Edit - the way the kitchen fitter has the door opening makes much more sense in the room.

This was fully my view. Difficult to measure but I’d say the little hillock that caused my failure was 3-4mm.

You can swap the side fridges open, the fitter probably wasn't thinking. Presumably the handles are now drilled into the wrong side of the door though. You can fix it all for half an hour of fitter time and a new door, I'd suggest the fitter should explain themselves and correct it.

Yep. Should just be a case of undoing a few bolts one side of the fridge and doing them up the other. Then once they both open the same way there will be some slidey fixings to attach the fridge door to the kitchen cupboard door, I don’t think you’ll need anything new unless I’m misinterpreting something. The kitchen fitter should have done it, probably forgot.

The way the outer cabinet opens is how I'd want it to open, so if the fridge door can be swapped round all good without a new door?