Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Ooooh, thanks for that - I'll have another look tomorrow. It's a Crono CS (the OG hill climber's mad light tub) and it was very cheap on ebay, so worth a check. Sure I have a spare Vittoria valve from a punctured one knocking around.

Have sent an email… In the mean time gave each side a wack with a wooden mallet and it seems to have improved things 😅

Thanks for your help.

Rightly or wrongly I have managed to feed the cable outer all the way through the frame and out of the end of the chainstay so that is what I have done.

This - and very slightly noticeable worsening brake performance probably suggests a leak? Can’t quite tell if it’s getting worse - I only ride the bike that these pads are from once a week, and new pads, rotor, bleed was only done by the bike shop 3 weeks ago. Best to clean it then see if the oil rings reappear? But yeah most likely a piston seal problem right?

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Best to clean it then see if the oil rings reappear? But yeah most likely a piston seal problem right?

Yes and yes.
Rather than leave the pads in to test the theory, take them out, and clean everything thoroughly. Put a spacer block wrapped in tissue paper in there, and use a toe-strap or similar to apply the lever. Leave for 24 hours, take the spacer out and inspect the paper for any evidence of leaking fluid.

I don't suppose anyone knows where I can get a 250ml bottle of Hunter Silicone Lubricant from, do they? Seems it's only available from trade only plumbers merchants. Anyone on here a plumber?!

Just took it out again and it actually is a UN55, I had it confused with another bike. Used loctite and backed off nds slightly, seems to have reduced the excessive drag but time will tell if it stays put. 68mm and 113mm but can't seem to find many about now. Is the tange alternative any good?

I've had problems with a couple of tange I've fitted failing early on a couple of people's bikes, enough that I wouldn't recommend them. I'd get a UN300, I think I've got a couple of UN55s in the workshop but can't remember the lengths, DM me if you want one posting and I'll check Monday.

I’ve been using Token square taper BBs for a while, none have gone crunchy yet, they have nice CNC tapers and are appreciably lighter than UN-55/300 if you care about that.

Are the Token jis? I think I had an ISO token with my Campags.

They do both I think. ~£30 on eBay, arrives in a week from China.

Tiffosi make some nice bottom brackets, a few different lengths and tappers.

Got a fleet of bikes that all have front and rear mudguards.

Lost a lot of the little rubber bits that cover the end of the thin metal struts.

Where on earth can I get a bag of these things and what are they even called?

Rubber end caps?

Is that French?

Lost a lot of the little rubber bits that cover the end of the thin metal struts.

Probably 3mm rubber caps

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223162434388

SKS make them as spares, most bike shops that sell the brand have spares. Don't cost a fortune.

Glue them on.

The Tifosi BBs are identical to, and are made by, Token… afaik.

Cheers troops!

No, so the caliper itself is nominally vertical. Since there's an adjustment screw you can get the pads evenly spaced off the rim even if the caliper is rotated off-vertical, so I'm never sure.

Hmm, what effect does the caliper not being vertical have? Imbalance in the spring tension on each arm?

I’ve never touched that screw on any brake I’ve owner or worked on.

Same, never touched it either!

Trim them flush, no need for end caps that may fall off and expose the stays.

The rim can get pressed laterally by the arm that touches it first. Easy enough to sort out, just move it until both shoes touch at the same time and the rim has no lateral movement. No need for the screw. Never touched it either.

Yeah, I'd always just loosen the allen key and centre the caliper then nip it back up.